防晒化妆品抗水功效评价参数研究

目的]分析体外法参数在抗水性防晒化妆品抗水能力评估中的应用。方法]选取4个宣称具有抗水或防水功能的防晒化妆品和2个未宣称抗水或防水功能的防晒化妆品。分别测定入水前后的SPF值、λC值及R值(UVA/UVB),并记录入水前后的MPF吸收曲线。结果]6种防晒化妆品样品入水前后的SPF值、λC值、R值及MPF曲线均有不同程度的变化。结论]SPF值和R值相结合,可以简单推断样品入水前后防晒剂的变化情况,但要获得全面的信息,还需参考MPF曲线的变化情况。λC值在防晒化妆品抗水性评价中的应用有待进一步实验和分析。

Studies on water resistance of sunscreens in vitro

Objective] To study the possibility of assessment on water resisitance of sunscreens in vitro Methods] Four sunscreen products labeling water resistance and two sunscreen products without labeling water resistant were chosen for assessment. SPF, critical wavelength and the ratio of UVA/UVB were examined before and after samples were put into water. The MPF absorbance curves were recorded. Results ] There were variations of SPF, critical wavelength, the ratio of UVA/UVB and the MPF absorbance curves before and after samples were put into water. Conclusion] Using the value of SPF and the value of UVA/UVB ratio, the changes of the UV filters before and after samples were put into water could be briefly estimated. The MPF absorbance curves were needed in order to obtain complete information. The results showed that the application of critical wavelength in water resistance assessment needs further study and analysis.