Retinyl retinoate,a novel hybrid vitamin derivative,improves photoaged skin: a double‐blind,randomized‐controlled trial

Background: All‐trans‐retinoic acid (RA) and all‐trans‐retinol (ROL) are not widely used as anti‐wrinkle agents due to their irritancy and photo‐stability, respectively. Therefore, the safety and photo‐stability in the development of RA or ROL derivatives have been an important issue. Aim: To identify the efficacy of retinyl retinoate as an anti‐aging agent of cosmetics in treating females over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles. Methods: The clinical study was a prospective, double‐blind, randomized, and controlled study with a total of 11 Korean women. At every 4 weeks, the effectiveness was assessed with a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and visiometers. The dermal distance and intensity was also evaluated using Dermascan C. Results: A statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles (P<0.05) in eleven volunteers was observed in a clinical trial. The successive application of 0.06% retinyl retinoate cream for 3 months showed decreased depth and area of wrinkles in comparison with 0.075% retinol cream. The visual wrinkle improvement and the maximum roughness improvement rate (R2) for retinyl retinoate cream were 22% higher than that of retinol cream after 12 weeks. A statistically significant increase was observed after 8 and 4 weeks for dermal distance and dermal intensity, respectively (P<0.05). Conclusions: Retinyl retinoate had characteristic features of new anti‐aging agents, and effectively improved facial wrinkle conditions.