Repair of acetone- and sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged human skin barrier function using topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids

BACKGROUND: It is generally acknowledged that well-formulated moisturizing skin care products can restore disturbed barrier function that can be assessed by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. When ceramides and/or other barrier lipids are incorporated, it is, however, not always clearly demonstrated which ingredients of the formulation exert the beneficial effects. OBJECTIVES: In this study the effects of topically applied ceramide-containing mixtures on the barrier repair of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)- and acetone-induced skin damage have been studied in human volunteers. TEWL and stratum corneum hydration measurements were carried out. The emulsions applied contained either a mixture of two types of ceramides, CerIII and CerIIIB (emulsion 1) or a complete mixture of ceramides III, IIIB and VI together with phytosphingosine, cholesterol and the free fatty acid linoleic acid (emulsion 2). RESULTS: After SLS damage, it was observed that barrier recovery was significantly accelerated by topical application (14 days, 2 x/d) of emulsion 2 compared with the results obtained with emulsion 1. Corneometrical results were not relevant due to the occurrence of scaly fissured skin, failing to provide a good skin/probe contact. Although no effect on TEWL could be observed, the improvement of skin hydration after acetone treatment and a single application of the emulsions, was significantly more positive for emulsion 2 than for emulsion 1. CONCLUSIONS: The investigative methods used in this study show that ceramides combined with other skin lipids can improve barrier repair after damage.