Variation in barrier impairment and inflammation of human skin as determined by sodium lauryl sulphate penetration rate

BACKGROUND: Skin irritability after a brief exposure to the model skin irritant, sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), is known to vary considerably between individuals. A difference in the skin barrier to SLS may contribute to this variation. To date, no human in vivo data have been available on SLS penetration into the skin. OBJECTIVES: We studied whether the SLS penetration rate into the stratum corneum (SC) is related to impairment of the water barrier function and inflammation of the skin. METHODS: The penetration of SLS into the SC was assessed using a noninvasive tape-stripping procedure in 20 volunteers after a 4-h exposure to 1% SLS. Additionally, the effect of a 24-h exposure to 1% SLS on the skin water barrier function was assessed by measuring the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The accompanying inflammation was quantified by measuring erythema. RESULTS: The mean +/- SD diffusivity of SLS (D) and the SLS permeability coefficient (Kp) were 1.4 +/- 0.6 x 10(-8) cm2 h(-1) and 1.5 +/- 0.7 x 10(-3) cm h(-1), respectively. A multiple regression analysis showed that the baseline TEWL, SC thickness and SLS penetration parameters K (SC/water partition coefficient) and D clearly influenced the increase in TEWL after the 24-h irritation test (explained variance: r2 = 0.80). Change in erythema was mainly influenced by SC thickness. CONCLUSIONS: We found that variation in the barrier impairment and inflammation of human skin depends on the SLS penetration rate, which was mainly determined by SC thickness.