Effects of moisturization on epidermal homeostasis and differentiation

Moisturizers are commonly used for routine skin care. This study assessed the effects of a moisturizer on barrier function, epidermal architecture, keratinocyte proliferation, and physiological regulation of the epidermis in photoaged but otherwise normal skin. Fifteen women with moderately photoaged forearms were treated twice a day for 4 weeks with a moisturizer containing dimethicone and glycerine. Baseline and post-treatment transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and ipsilateral forearm biopsies were obtained. Epidermal thickness, melanin levels, keratinocyte proliferation, and expression of keratins were evaluated. Induction of keratins 6 and 16, commonly associated with keratinocyte proliferation and wound healing, was observed. Epidermal thickness increased by 0.019 mm (P = 0.005), barrier function improved (TEWL decreased by 13%) and melanin intensity decreased (P = 0.004). Even nonxerotic, photoaged skin may appear younger, benefiting structurally and functionally from routine use of moisturizers containing dimethicone and glycerine.