Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of ageing and the seasons |
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Authors: | J Rogers C Harding A Mayo J Banks A Rawlings |
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Institution: | (1) Unilever Research, Colworth Laboratory, Colworth House, Sharnbrook, Bedford. MK44 1LQ, UK Tel. 01234 222616; Fax 01234 222059, GB;(2) Unilever Research, Edgewater, NJ, USA, US |
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Abstract: | Stratum corneum lipids play a predominant role in maintaining the water barrier of the skin. In order to understand the biological
variation in the levels and composition of ceramides, ceramide 1 subtypes, cholesterol and fatty acids, stratum corneum lipids
collected from tape strippings from three body sites (face, hand, leg) of female Caucasians of different age groups were analysed.
In addition, we studied the influence of seasonal variation on the lipid composition of stratum corneum from the same body
sites. The main lipid species were quantified using high-performance thin-layer chromatography and individual fatty acids
using gas chromatography. Our findings demonstrated significantly decreased levels of all major lipid species, in particular
ceramides, with increasing age. Similarly, the stratum corneum lipid levels of all the body sites examined were dramatically
depleted in winter compared with spring and summer. The relative levels of ceramide 1 linoleate were also depleted in winter
and in aged skin whereas ceramide 1 oleate levels increased. The other fatty acid levels remained fairly constant with both
season and age, apart from lignoceric and heptadecanoic acid which showed a decrease in winter compared with summer. The decrease
in the mass levels of intercellular lipids and the altered ratios of fatty acids esterified to ceramide 1, are likely to contribute
to the increased susceptibility of aged skin to perturbation of barrier function and xerosis, particularly during the winter
months.
Received: 17 October 1995 |
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Keywords: | Stratum corneum lipids Ceramides Ageing Seasons Ceramide 1 linoleate |
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