3种植物源表面活性剂的提取及其安全性研究

目的: 研究皂荚皂苷、茶皂素和无患子皂苷3种天然非离子植物源表面活性剂在化妆品领域运用的安全性。 方法: 以乙醇作为提取剂对简单处理过的40目皂荚粉、茶籽粉和无患子粉进行粗提。通过红细胞溶血实验中50%溶血浓度(HC₅₀)、蛋白变性指数(DI)及HC₅₀/DI(L/D)3个参数对皂荚皂苷、茶皂素和无患子皂苷进行安全性评估,同时与化妆品中常用的表面活性剂十二烷基醇醚硫酸铵(AESA)进行比较。 结果: 3种天然表面活性剂中,无患子皂苷产率和实际含量最低。3种天然表面活性剂HC₅₀均低于50 mg·L^-1,且刺激性高于AESA,其中,无患子皂苷刺激性最强。眼刺激分级,3种提取物L/D值均<1,属于刺激性物质。 结论: 无患子皂苷生产成本比另外2种表面活性剂高。且这3种天然表面活性剂刺激性均较强,运用到化妆品时,应严格控制其添加量,以降低其刺激性的影响。

Extract of Three Surfactants from Plants and Study on Safety of the Extract

Objective: To study the safety of three surfactants from plants, gleditsia saponin, tea saponin and sapindus saponin, in the field of cosmetics. Method: After simple pre-treatment, ethanol used as the extraction agent, 40 mesh-powders from Gleditsia sinensis, tea-seed cake and sapindus mukorossi were extracted respectively. Compared with ammonium alcohol ether sulphat(AESA)which was commonly used in the cosmetics, the 50% hemolytic dosage (HC₅₀), protein denaturation index (DI), and the ratio of HC₅₀/DI(L/D) in hemolysis test were measured to evaluate the safety of leditsia saponin, tea saponin and sapindus saponin. Result: The yield and the real content of sapindus saponin among three surfactants were the lowest. HC₅₀ of gleditsia saponin, tea saponin and sapindus saponin were all lower than 50 mg·L^-1, which meant the saponins had stronger irritation than AESA, and the HC₅₀ value of sapindus saponin was the minimum. L/D value of the saponins was less than 1.By eye irritation classification, it showed that three surfactants from plants belonged to the irritating substance. Conclusion: The production cost of sapindus saponin was the highest among three saponins. Considering the strong irritation of the three surfactants from plants, the amount of them should be strictly controlled to decrease the irritation when applied as cosmetics.