Novel anti‐wrinkle effect of cosmeceutical product with new retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer

Background: The novel hybrid retinoid, retinyl retinoate, is a synthetic material that was designed to reduce the side effects of retinoic acid and to increase the stability of retinol. The formulation of the retinyl retinoate, however, is required to enhance skin permeation, and thus to increase the anti‐wrinkle effect. Aim: To identify the efficacy of retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer as an anti‐aging agent of cosmetics in treating females over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles. Methods: The retinyl retinoate microsphere was prepared using the biodegradable polymer; polylactic acid (PLA). We also conducted two clinical studies with a total of 44 Korean women for 12 weeks. In the first clinical study, 20 patients completed a 12‐week trial of cream A [3% PLA‐retinyl retinoate (2%) microsphere] applied twice daily to the face. In the second clinical study, 24 patients completed a 12‐week trial of cream B (0.06% retinyl retinoate) applied twice daily to the face. Efficacy was based on a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and Visiometers every 4 weeks. Results: The PLA‐retinyl retinoate microsphere was more effective for the permeation of retinyl retinoate than retinyl retinoate in itself. The cream A, which contains 3% PLA‐retinyl retinoate (2%) microsphere, showed a statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles (P<0.05) in 20 volunteers after only 4 weeks of application in a clinical trial test. The visual wrinkle improvement and the maximum roughness improvement rate (R2) for cream A was 6.05%, 8.03% higher than that of cream B which contains 0.06% retinyl retinoate, after 4 weeks. Conclusion: Retinyl retinoate has a potent anti‐wrinkle activity, and the PLA‐retinyl retinoate microsphere could be a useful cosmeceutical product for anti‐aging purposes.     

Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial

Background Photoaged skin can be treated with retinoids, which are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. However, these are photounstable and can cause skin irritation, which is a major limitation in their use in general cosmetics. Retinyl retinoate, which is an ester of all‐trans retinoic acid (RA) and all‐trans retinol, has reduced toxicity due to blocking of the carboxyl end group of RA and higher skin regeneration activity than retinol. Objectives To assess the efficacy of a photostable retinyl retinoate in treating women over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles. Methods We conducted two clinical studies with a total of 46 Korean women with periorbital wrinkles, who were not pregnant, nursing or undergoing any concurrent therapy. In the first clinical study, the efficacy of retinyl retinoate was compared with placebo. Twenty‐four patients completed a 12‐week trial of 0·06% retinyl retinoate applied twice daily to one side of the face and a placebo applied to the other side. In the second clinical study, the efficacy of retinyl retinoate was compared with retinol. Twenty‐two patients completed an 8‐week trial of 0·06% retinyl retinoate applied twice daily to one side of the face and 0·075% retinol applied to the other side. Efficacy was based on a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and visiometer analysis (Skin‐Visiometer SV 600; Courage & Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) every 4 weeks. The standard wrinkle and roughness parameters used in assessing skin by visiometer were calculated and statistically analysed. Results The retinyl retinoate‐treated wrinkles improved compared with wrinkles treated with placebo or retinol, as assessed by both the investigators and the subjects. Also, skin replica analysis indicated significant improvements in retinyl retinoate‐treated skin in both studies, especially in average roughness. Conclusions Retinyl retinoate applied twice daily was significantly more effective than a placebo or retinol in treating periorbital wrinkles. Importantly, no severe side‐effects were observed.     

Efficacy of anti-aging products for periorbital wrinkles as measured by 3-D imaging

Background The periorbital area is a key wrinkle‐prone region, where the first signs of aging usually appear. Aims To demonstrate the ability of new anti‐aging moisturizing products to improve overall smoothness and wrinkle depth appearance in the periorbital region via the Fast Optical in vivo Topometry of Human Skin (FOITS). Methods Two double‐blind, randomized, controlled, split‐face studies (n = 42, Study 1; n = 35, Study 2) were conducted in women 30–70 years old with moderate to distinct periorbital wrinkles. Subjects applied 0.5 g of individual products to half their face twice daily for 4 weeks. Four test products containing niacinamide, the peptides Pal‐KT and Pal‐KTTKS, and carnosine were used and included a daytime SPF 30 lotion also containing antioxidants, a night cream, an eye cream also containing caffeine, and a wrinkle treatment containing retinyl propionate. The wrinkle treatment was only tested in Study 2. The FOITS technique was used to measure changes in periorbital R_a (mean roughness) and R_z (average maximum roughness) at 2 and 4 weeks. Results In Study 1, the daytime SPF 30 lotion, night cream, and eye cream significantly improved crow’s feet smoothness after 4 weeks relative to no treatment. After 4 weeks, the daytime SPF 30 lotion and night cream, but not the eye cream, were significantly better than no treatment at improving R_z. In Study 2, the night cream, eye cream, and wrinkle treatment, but not the daytime SPF 30 lotion, significantly improved both R_a and R_z after 4 weeks. To increase power and precision of estimates, a meta‐analysis was performed; the pooled data showed all three products were significantly better than no treatment at improving R_a and R_z after 4 weeks. Conclusions Four weeks of treatment with these products was shown to improve the smoothness of periorbital skin and to reduce the apparent depth of larger wrinkles.     

Evaluation of anti‐wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide

Niacinamide is known to have effectiveness on sallowness, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots in aging skin. In this study, we have evaluated the anti‐wrinkle effects of a new cosmetic containing niacinamide. A randomized, placebo‐controlled, split face study was performed in 30 healthy Japanese females who had wrinkles in the eye areas. The tested cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide was applied on wrinkles of one side for 8 weeks, and a control cosmetic without niacinamide on another site. Anti‐wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) doctors’ observation and photographs based on the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (Ra value) using skin replica. This cosmetic showed marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001). Wrinkle grades in the tested area significantly reduced more than pre‐application (P < 0.001) and the control (P < 0.001). Reduction in Ra value on the tested area was more than pre‐application (P < 0.01) and the control site (P < 0.05) with significant differences Only one subject stopped the study with minimal irritation. These results indicated that the tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles in the eye areas.     

The severity of wrinkling at the forehead is related to the degree of ptosis of the upper eyelid

Background: Most studies on wrinkle formation have focused on changes in the dermal condition that promote the fixation of transiently formed wrinkles. Little is known about the age‐dependent changes in transient wrinkle formation in response to altered facial expression or the mechanism leading to fixed wrinkle formation. Objective: To clarify the mechanism of wrinkle formation at the forehead, we investigated the factors that influence the severity of transient wrinkling and the relationship of transient with fixed wrinkles, using a newly established method to evaluate transient wrinkle formation. Methods: Transient wrinkles were generated by requesting subjects to gaze in an upward direction. Foreheads of the subjects with or without an upward gaze at a fixed angle were photographed and the severity of wrinkles at the forehead was graded from 0 to 5 in 50 healthy Japanese female volunteers in their 20s, 40s, or 60s. Skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer^®. Frontalis muscle activity and ptosis of the upper eyelid were estimated by measuring movement of the eyebrow during upward gazing and the position of the upper eyelid of the open eye, respectively. Results: Wrinkles formed transiently at the forehead by upward gazing were highly reproducible in each subject. Their severity increased with aging and was highly correlated to that of fixed wrinkles (R=0.81, P<0.001). Therefore, this method appears to be suitable for studying the mechanism of transient wrinkle formation and the relationship between transient and fixed wrinkles at the forehead. The severity of transient wrinkles was correlated with elevation of the eyebrow during upward gazing (R=0.69, P<0.001), but not with dermal elasticity. This suggests that transient wrinkles are induced by increased frontalis muscle activity during upward gazing. Frontalis muscle activation was negatively correlated with upper eyelid position (R=−0.37, P<0.05), which descended with aging, meaning ptosis of the upper eyelid, and negatively correlated with the severity of transient wrinkles induced by upward gazing (R=−0.43, P<0.05). Furthermore, the upper eyelid position was also negatively correlated with the severity of fixed wrinkles (R=−0.44, P<0.05). Conclusion: These results suggest that ptosis of the upper eyelid is associated with increased activation of the frontalis muscle during upward gazing and increased severity of transient and fixed wrinkling at the forehead.     

Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin

Background Anti‐aging effects of high concentrations of salicylic acid (SA) peels are commonly known. Like all acids, SA can produce somatosensory and visible irritation to the skin and as such may be unsuitable for subjects with sensitive skin. Aims To provide evidence that sodium salicylate (SS) obtained from neutralization of 1% SA by sodium hydroxide can deliver significant anti‐aging benefits. Methods The effects of SS were examined using three approaches: (1) evaluating its effects on stimulating the synthesis of fibrillin and collagen‐1 in vivo; (2) examining its efficacy by using Fast Optical in vivo Topometry (FOITS) in a double‐blind, placebo‐controlled clinical study; (3) determining its effects on both expert and naïve grader assessement of wrinkles in a double‐blind, placebo‐controlled study. Results In the first study SS produced significant increases of the fibrillin and collagen‐1 anti‐aging biomarkers compared with the untreated skin control. A commercially available retinol cream delivered similar effects to SS. In the second study using FOITS we showed that the SS formulation significantly reduced wrinkle depth (Rz) and skin roughness (Ra) after 4 and 8 weeks of daily application vs. placebo (Rz: ?8.2 ± 1.40% and ?11.4 ± 1.07%; Ra: ?7.8 ± 1.33% and ?11.9 ± 0.61%; P < 0.01). In the third study reductions in wrinkle depth were observed by expert assessment at both 4 and 8 weeks for the SS‐containing formulation compared to its placebo (P < 0.05). Equally, non‐expert graders recorded the SS formulation superior to its placebo. Conclusion Although the mechanism of action is not completely understood, we believe the benefits of SS are derived from its intrinsic stratum corneum exfoliation effects. All three studies demonstrate the significant anti‐aging effects of SS that are especially suitable for subjects with sensitive skin.     

Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects

Background The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest that the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during aging. Aims To investigate the potential of topically applied creatine to improve the clinical signs of skin aging by stimulating dermal collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. Patients/Methods Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast‐populated collagen gels. In a single‐center, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a face‐care formulation containing creatine, guarana extract, and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features. Results Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine‐containing formulation for 6 weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow’s feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes. Conclusions In summary, creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin aging.     

Effect of a preparation containing a fucose-rich polysaccharide on periorbital wrinkles of human voluntaries

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is accompanied by wrinkle formation. At some sites, as the periorbital skin, this is a relatively early phenomenon, variable from one woman to the other and even between the right and left eye. PURPOSE: We tested the effect of a preparation with fucose-rich oligo- and polysaccharide (FROP-3) on periorbital wrinkles (crow's feet) on a team of voluntaries. METHOD: The efficiency of a preparation containing as active principle a fucose-rich polysaccharide in a base-cream for the treatment of temporal periorbital wrinkles on 20 voluntary women was tested as follows: the women applied the cream twice a day for 4 weeks. Negative replicas were taken on the periorbital skin before and after 4 weeks of application of the cream. The results were evaluated by semi-automated morphometry on the plastic replicas and expressed as the 'wrinkle-factor' obtained by multiplying total wrinkle length in millimeters by the average wrinkle width. RESULTS: After 4 weeks of treatment, there was a significant improvement of the periorbital wrinkles for the majority of the voluntary team who tested the cream. On the 29 periocular wrinkles examined 65% showed an improvement at the end of the treatment. In two cases, the improvement was 100% on one eye (disappearance of the crow's feet) and of 75% and 79% on the other eye. On six eyes, there was no significant change after the end of the treatment, and on four eyes a worsening was observed. The age-dependent modifications showed that improvement was independent of age and was the result of individual skin reactions to the cream. The occurrence and the severity of crow's feet is highly individual, and differs from one side of the face to the other for the same person. These strong individual variations explain the highly variable results, not only from one woman to the other but also comparing one side of the face to the other for the same person. CONCLUSION: Under the effect of 4 weeks of treatment with the FROP-3-containing cream, most of the voluntaries had their periorbital wrinkles attenuated and some women showed a total regression of crow's feet on one of their eyes.     

The effect of Zanthoxylum bungeanum maxim extract on crow's feet: A double‐blind,split‐face trial

As one of the most obvious signs of aging, wrinkles have long been the concern of many people and continue to be a major topic in dermal‐cosmetic industry. Accordingly, there is a need to develop products with good efficacy and safety profile. The Zanthoxylum bungeanum maxim (ZBM) extract is a natural food which may possess the property of a toxin‐like botulinum. To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a formulation that contains 2% ZBM pericarp extract in the treatment of wrinkles. Twenty females aged 35–60 years old were enrolled in this randomized, vehicle‐controlled, double‐blind, and split‐face trial. The trial lasted for 30 days, when participants randomly used formulations containing 2% ZBM extract on one side of the temporal canthus and vehicle formulation on the other side. Skin roughness, skin hydration, and skin elasticity were evaluated by Primospico, Corneometer® CM825, and Cutometer® MPA580, respectively. The formulation containing 2% ZBM extract has a significant short‐term anti‐crow's feet effect compared with vehicle. No adverse effect was shown during the study. Topical application of 2% ZBM extract is tolerable and can be used as an effective cosmetic agent for short‐term wrinkle treatment.     

Effects and side effects of 2%‐progesterone cream on the skin of peri‐ and postmenopausal women: Results from a double blind, vehicle‐controlled, randomized study

Background: Since many years topical progesterone has been prescribed by gynecologists as an anti‐aging and skin firming treatment, without any clinical scientific evidence of its effects, tolerability and its safety when topically applied to skin. Objective: The objective of this study was to evaluate the influence of 2%‐progesterone cream on the functions and texture of the skin in the peri‐ and postmenopause. Methods: A double blind, randomized, vehicle controlled study was conducted in 40 subjects. Clinical monitoring, subjective self assessment, objective measurement methods of skin elasticity, epidermal hydration and skin surface lipids and the determination of blood hormone levels (LH, FSH, estrogen, and progesterone) were used to determine effects and side effects of this treatment at four visits during 24 weeks. Results: The study demonstrated consistent superiority of 2%‐progesterone cream over vehicle in counteracting different signs of aging in the skin of peri‐ and postmenopausal women. Clinical monitoring observed higher reductions in wrinkle counts (?29,10% vs. 16,50%) and wrinkle depth (?9,72 vs. –7,35%) around the right eye, higher decrease in nasolabial wrinkle depth (?9,72% vs. –6,62%) and a significantly higher (p = 0,031) improvement of skin firmness (23,61% vs.13,24%) in the treatment group. 2%‐progesterone cream also yielded significant improvements (p < 0,05) in the objective measurement of different parameters of skin viscoelasticity and elasticity compared to the vehicle group. Epidermal hydration and skin surface lipids did not change significantly in both groups during the study. Progesterone was well absorbed in the systemic circulation, mean blood levels rose minimally, but statistically significant (p = 0,001) by 0,53 ng/nl. No serious side effects of the treatment were observed. Conclusions: The results of this study demonstrate that topical 2%‐progesterone acts primarily in a skin firming and elasticity improving manner on hormone deficient skin of the peri‐ and postmenopause. These effects in combination with good tolerability make progesterone a possible treatment agent in slowing down the aging process of the female skin after onset of menopause.     

Prospective,randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing

Bakuchiol is found mainly in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia (babchi) and has recently been shown to have a number of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The goal of this study, by researchers from universities in California, Michigan, Florida and Pennsylvania in the US, was to compare the efficacy and side effects of bakuchiol with the commonly-used anti-ageing ingredient retinol. 44 volunteers were asked to apply either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily, or retinol 0.5% cream daily, to facial skin for 12 weeks. Retinol 0.5% has previously been shown to be effective at preventing and addressing signs of skin ageing but can have side effects including stinging, scaling and redness. A facial photograph and analytical system was used to take and analyse high-resolution photographs of patients at 0, 4, 8 and 12 weeks of the study. Patients also answered questions about side-effects. During study visits, a dermatologist graded pigmentation (skin colouring) and redness. To avoid bias, this dermatologist was not made aware of which treatment each participant was using. The study found that bakuchiol and retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the two compounds. However, the retinol users reported more skin scaling and stinging. The results were most marked after the full 12 weeks, with a 20 percent reduction in wrinkle severity. 59 percent of the participants in the bakuchiol group showed improvement in their hyperpigmentation at week 12, compared to 44 percent of those in the retinol group. The improvements related both to the intensity of the colour and to the size of the area affected. The findings of this study are promising for bakuchiol as an effective anti-ageing treatment with minimal side effects, however this would need to be confirmed in larger studies.     

Repair of photoaged dermal matrix by topical application of a cosmetic 'antiageing' product

BACKGROUND: Photoaged skin is characterized by coarse and fine wrinkles. The mechanism of wrinkle formation appears to involve changes to components of the dermal extracellular matrix. Topical treatment with all-trans retinoic acid (RA) can repair photoaged dermal matrix; this is regarded as the 'gold standard' against which repair agents are judged. To date, little is known regarding the ability of over-the-counter 'antiageing' products to repair photoaged skin. OBJECTIVES: We used a modified occluded patch test to ascertain whether topical applications of cosmetic 'antiageing' products are able to repair photoaged human skin. METHODS: Commercially available test products [basic moisturizer, 'antiageing' cream containing different active complex levels (6% active: lipopentapeptide, white lupin peptides, antioxidants, retinyl palmitate; 2% active: lipopentapeptide, white lupin peptides, antioxidants)] were applied under occlusion for 12 days prior to biopsy and histological assessment in photoaged volunteers (n=9). RA was used as a positive control. RESULTS: In agreement with previous studies, the patch-test study revealed that RA produced significant fibrillin-1 deposition in the papillary dermis (P<0.01) but had little effect on procollagen I or matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression. The 6% total active complex formulation, however, increased the deposition of fibrillin-1 and procollagen I (P<0.01, P<0.05, respectively). CONCLUSIONS: This study indicates that in an in vivo 12-day patch test an over-the-counter cosmetic product can induce changes in photoaged dermal extracellular matrix, which are indicative of repair.     

Fractional photothermolysis for the treatment of facial wrinkles – searching for optimal treatment parameters in a randomized study in the split‐face design

Background: Fractionated photothermolysis (FP) is used for the treatment of facial wrinkles. Objectives: Investigation of effects of different FP treatment parameters in the treatment of facial wrinkles. Patients and methods: In a randomized split‐face controlled study 11 patients received 3 FP sessions in 4‐week intervals. Keeping the total energy input for each facial side constant, one side was treated with 6 mJ/MTZ with relatively high MTZ density (up to 2,625 MTZ/cm²) and the contralateral side with 70 mJ/MTZ with lower MTZ density (up to 230 MTZ/cm²). Follow‐up (FU) visits were performed 1, 3, and 6 months after the last treatment. The cosmetic evaluation was done by the patient self‐assessments and by assessment of standardized photographs by 3 independent, blinded investigators. Post‐treatment side effects were documented daily in a patient diary up to 7 days after the procedure. Results: After 6 months, the patient self‐assessments indicated significant improvements (p < 0.005) in wrinkle severity from 5.2 ± 1.5 to 3.8 ± 1.3 and 3.7 ± 1.3 for 6 and 70 mJ/MTZ, respectively, but without significant difference between the energy levels. In contrast, the photographic evaluation by the blinded investigators showed that wrinkle severity was rated significantly better at the sites treated with 70 mJ/MTZ than at the sites treated with 6 mJ/MTZ (p < 0.01). Treatment with 70 mJ/MTZ was significantly more painful than treatment with 6 mJ/MTZ. The typical local reactions to FP, erythema and edema, were also significantly more intense after 70 mJ/MTZ and lasted longer. Conclusions: FP with higher energy per MTZ at constant total energy input is more effective in the treatment of facial wrinkles than lower energy. The gain in effectiveness is, nonetheless, accompanied by an increase in adverse reactions. The treating physician may use this information to adjust treatment to the preferences of the individual patient.     

Metabolism of topical retinaldehyde and retinol by mouse skin in vivo: predominant formation of retinyl esters and identification of 14-hydroxy-4, 14-retro-retinol

Abstract We have previously shown that retinaldehyde (RAL), a natural metabolite of (β-carotene and retinol (ROL), can be used topically in human skin and exerts biological activity: it may be a convenient way to deliver multipotential vitamin A activity in epidermis. RAL can be converted enzymatically into 2 pathways: one leads to ROL (and then retinyl esters), the other to retin-oic acid (RA). The aim of the present study was 2-fold: (i) to see if RAL is metabolised in vivo when topically applied on mouse skin, and (ii) if so. to an-alyse the occurrence and relative importance of the 2 metabolic pathways as compared to ROL. We studied by HPLC the metabolites detectable in mouse tail skin upon topical application of RAL and ROL. As compared to vehicle-treated controls, RAL-treated mouse skin contained low amounts of all-trans RA and 13-cis-RA, whereas ROL content increased 10-fold and retinyl esters 30-fold after RAL application. As compared to RAL. ROL-treated mouse skin showed no detectable RA, slightly less retinyl esters but a significant amount of 14-hydroxy-4, 14-retro-ROL (14-HRR). a metabolite not previously reported in the skin. 14-HRR was the predominant polar metabolite of ROL. These data indicate that keratinocytes metabolise topical RAL. thus confirming the concept of using RAL as a precursor. Both pathways are used but in significantly different proportions. Thus, only a low proportion of RAL is metabolised into all-trans-RA, which may explain the low irritancy profile of topical RAL and supports the concept of a controlled delivery of ligands. That keratinocytes predominantly channel RAL into storage forms indicates that RAL, should also be considered as a convenient way to load the epidermis with vitamin A. The detection of 14-HRR. a metabolite not previously reported in skin, that promotes growth of B lymphocytes and activation of T lymphocytes, suggests distinct potentials of topical ROL and RAL.     

A clinical study on the usefulness of autologous plasma filler in the treatment of nasolabial fold wrinkles

Background: Recently, the efficacy of autologous plasma filler for the reduction of facial wrinkles has been demonstrated. Objective: The aim of our study is to validate the efficacy and safety of autologous plasma filler in treating nasolabial fold wrinkles. Material and methods: Twenty Korean patients with moderate-to-severe nasolabial fold wrinkles were enrolled. The patients were treated with one session of autologous plasma filler. The wrinkle improvement effects were evaluated at 1-week, 4-week, 8-week, and 12-week after the treatment. Three assessment methods were applied. First, two independent dermatologists assessed cosmetic results using a 5-point wrinkle assessment scale. Second, global aesthetic improvement score was used for assessment of the final cosmetic results. Third, patient satisfaction was surveyed. Also, the adverse effects associated to treatment were observed. Results: Mean age of the patients was 44.5 years. The average 5-point wrinkle assessment scale score was significantly improved at 1, 4, 8, and 12 weeks after treatment, comparing to before treatment (p < 0.01). The patients’ average global aesthetic improvement score also indicated better cosmetic outcomes. Conclusion: The clinical improvement with sufficient patients’ satisfaction and no significant adverse events demonstrated that novel autologous plasma filler could be considered as efficient and safety treatment option for nasolabial fold wrinkles.     

Tensile properties and contours of aging facial skin. A controlled double-blind comparative study of the effects of retinol,melibiose-lactose and their association

Background/aims: Facial aging is accompanied by modifications in the tensile properties and contours of skin. In the present study we instrumentally assessed and compared the effect of either 0.04% retinol (ROL), 1% melibiose and 4% lactose (ME-L) and their association (ROL-ME-L) to increase the firmness and smoothness of facial skin. A 1 % salicylic acid (SA) emulsion served as a cosmetic product reference. Methods: A total of 120 women were allocated to four randomized groups of 30 subjects, each group receiving one of the test products or a combination of test products. The tensile properties of facial skin were measured using the Cutometer® on seven occasions during the 12-week treatment and during a 4-week post-treatment phase. Fine lines and wrinkles were assessed on replicas by using image analysis after optical shadowing. Results: Significant differences in efficacy and lingering activity were observed between products. SA brought the weakest beneficial effects. ROL and ME-L provided better efficacy on both the tensile properties and contours of skin. They differed slightly according the nature of the biometrological variables. The combination ROL-ME-L achieved similar or even better results than the best of its components for each given physical property of skin. Conclusions: ROL, ME-L, and ROL-ME-L formulations improve physical properties of skin that are impaired by aging. Their activities are notably superior to those of a comparative SA formulation.     

积雪苷治疗35例鱼尾纹12周疗效观察

目的 评估积雪苷治疗鱼尾纹的临床疗效及安全性.方法 采用12周随机、双盲、赋形剂自身对照试验,通过第0、4、8、12周研究者盲法评价皱纹程度、受试者盲法自评、仪器测量3个方面评价试验用药侧与对照侧鱼尾纹的改善情况.结果 完成试验的35名受试者的双侧鱼尾纹程度根据研究者盲法评估,在使用第4周,治疗组与对照组的皱纹变化有统计学意义(P＜0.05).在第8、12周试验用药侧的皱纹程度的减轻优于对照侧,皱纹评分具有统计学意义(P＜0.05).采用Visioscan VC98定量测量双侧鱼尾纹SEw值结果显示,试验用药侧随时间的变化SEw的值增大,即皱纹程度减轻,与对照侧相比,差异有统计学意义.受试者评估显示,双侧药物在使用过程中刺激性及粗皱纹的改善情况无差异,外眦部位肌肤纹理改善方面治疗侧优于对照侧(P＜0.05).结论 积雪苷霜软膏每日3次局部外用改善鱼尾纹有一定疗效,无不良反应.