Stratum corneum integrity as a predictor for peristomal skin problems in ostomates

Background Peristomal skin problems are common, most often the result is disruption of the skin barrier and this may account for more than one in three visits to ostomy nurses. Therefore a specific assessment of individual risk factors relating to the skin barrier function would be of great interest. Methods Skin barrier integrity in ostomy patients with peristomal skin problems (PSP) was compared with that of ostomy patients with normal skin (controls) using transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Mechanical barrier disruption was determined by a tape stripping test and chemical barrier disruption [sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) 0·25%]. Results Patients and controls had a highly significant increase in TEWL value in the peristomal area compared with nonperistomal contralateral abdominal skin (P < 0·0001 for both groups). The skin barrier of normal‐looking contralateral skin of ostomates was found to be borderline impaired in patients with PSP compared with those without. A linear association was seen between the number of tape strips removed and TEWL for both cases and controls. Tape stripping suggested that patients with PSP had less resilient skin (P = 0·002). A significant difference in TEWL value between cases and controls was also seen for the SLS patch test on the dorsal skin (P = 0·02). Conclusion Successive tape stripping, a situation analogous to the normal use of a pouching system, caused a higher degree of barrier damage more rapidly in patients with PSP, indicating an impaired mechanical quality of the barrier. The SLS exposure test suggested a generally increased susceptibility to irritant dermatitis as assessed by TEWL. Our findings suggest tape stripping and SLS testing may have a role as predictive tests to identify patients at risk of PSP.     

Skin barrier response to occlusion of healthy and irritated skin: Differences in trans‐epidermal water loss,erythema and stratum corneum lipids

Background. Occlusion of the skin is a risk factor for development of irritant contact dermatitis. Occlusion may, however, have a positive effect on skin healing. No consensus on the effect of occlusion has been reached. Objectives. To investigate skin barrier response to occlusion on intact and damaged skin. Methods. In study A, the response to occlusion (nitrile glove material) for either 8 hr daily for 7 days or for 72 consecutive hours, respectively, was determined and compared with that of non‐occluded skin. In study B, the response to occlusion of for 72 consecutive hours of skin that had been damaged by either sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or tape stripping, respectively, was determined and compared with that of to non‐occluded pre‐damaged skin. Skin barrier function was assessed by measurements of trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema. In study A, stratum corneum lipids were analysed. Results. Occlusion of healthy skin did not significantly influence skin barrier function, ceramide profile or the ceramide/cholesterol ratio. Occlusion of the skin after SLS irritation resulted in higher TEWL than in the control (P = 0.049). Occlusion of the skin after tape stripping resulted in lower TEWL than in control skin (P = 0.007). Conclusions. A week of occlusion did not significantly affect healthy skin, but was found to decrease healing of SLS‐damaged skin, and to improve healing of tape‐stripped skin.     

Physical and physiological effects of stratum corneum tape stripping

Background/aims: Tape stripping of human stratum corneum has been performed to measure stratum corneum mass, barrier function, drug reservoir and percutaneous penetration. However, the technique itself requires further development to facilitate interpretation.
Methods: In this study we quantified stratum corneum (SC) tape stripping and water kinetic parameters utilizing three types of adhesive tapes, in an in vivo randomized clinical trial. Stratum corneum was tape stripped, and the mass of SC removed by each tape was quantified utilizing a protein assay. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured and barrier disruption and SC water kinetics calculated. Three commonly utilized acrylate adhesive tapes were utilized and a comparison made between them.
Results: Each type of tape successfully stripped the stratum corneum, but the rayon tape did not induce SC barrier disruption. Neither the type of tape nor the site stripped significantly influenced the mass of SC removed. Water kinetic parameters did not differ significantly for the tapes that did induce barrier disruption. Individual variation in barrier disruption to water following tape stripping was demonstrated.
Conclusion: The tapes utilized removed a similar amount of SC. The tapes have a different propensity to cause barrier disruption. Some individuals do not demonstrate increased TEWL despite an equivalent mass of SC being removed compared to those who do show a response.     

Effect of Aqueous Cream BP on human stratum corneum in vivo

Background Aqueous Cream BP is widely prescribed to patients with eczema to relieve skin dryness. The formulation contains sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), a chemical that is a known skin irritant and a commonly used excipient in personal care and household products. The chronic effects of Aqueous Cream BP application on skin barrier function have not been determined. Objectives To characterize and assess skin barrier function of healthy skin after application of Aqueous Cream BP and to study the physical effects of the formulation on the stratum corneum (SC). Methods The left and right volar forearms of six human volunteers were each separated into treated and control sides. The treated sides of each forearm were subjected to twice daily applications of Aqueous Cream BP for 4 weeks at the end of which concomitant tape stripping and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were made. The untreated sides of the forearms were not exposed to any products containing SLS during the study period. Results Changes in SC thickness, baseline TEWL and rate of increase in TEWL during tape stripping were observed in skin treated with Aqueous Cream BP. The mean decrease in SC thickness was 1·1 μm (12%) (P = 0·0015) and the mean increase in baseline TEWL was 2·5 g m^?2 h^?1 (20%) (P < 0·0001). Reduced SC thickness and an increase in baseline TEWL, as well as a faster rate of increase in TEWL during tape stripping, were observed in 16 out of 27 treated skin sites. Conclusions The application of Aqueous Cream BP, containing ～1% SLS, reduced the SC thickness of healthy skin and increased its permeability to water loss. These observations call into question the continued use of this emollient on the already compromised barrier of eczematous skin.     

Effect of barrier perturbation on cutaneous salicylic acid penetration in human skin: in vivo pharmacokinetics using microdialysis and non-invasive quantification of barrier function

We have used microdialysis in the dermis for assessing penetration kinetics of salicylic acid (SA) in healthy volunteers (n = 18), following application on the volar aspect of the left forearm. Penetration was monitored at four locations: in normal (unmodified) skin and in skin with perturbed barrier function from (i) repeated tape stripping (ii) irritant dermatitis from 1 or 2% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) for 24 h and (iii) delipidization by acetone. The order of the treatments was randomized according to a latin square design. Epidermal barrier function and skin irritation were assessed in each location using evaporimetry and colorimetry. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values confirmed that both mild (acetone), moderate (1% SLS) and severe barrier damage (tape stripping and 2% SLS) had occurred. Microdialysis sampling with two parallel probes in the dermis was performed in each of the four treatment areas for every subject. SA (5% in ethanol) was applied in a chamber glued to the skin overlying the microdialysis probes and sampling was continued for 4 h. SA was detectable in all samples and measurable in all samples from penetration through perturbed skin. Comparing the SA penetration in barrier-perturbed skin with the penetration in unmodified skin in the same subject, the mean SA penetration increase was 2.2-fold in acetone-treated skin (P = 0.012), 46-fold in mild dermatitis and 146- and 157-fold in severe dermatitis and tape stripped skin, respectively (P < 0.001). The penetration of SA significantly correlated with the measurements of barrier perturbation by TEWL (P = 0.01) and erythema (P = 0.02) for each individual. Microdialysis sampling of SA penetration was more sensitive than non-invasive measuring techniques in detecting significant barrier perturbation in acetone-treated skin. A positive dose-response relationship for the percutaneous penetration of SA in response to increasing SLS pretreatment concentrations and thus the degree of irritant dermatitis was found. When analysing data by location on the forearm, a tendency towards an intraregional variation in the reactivity to barrier damage was found, with the most proximal location displaying higher reactivity scores than the most distal location in response to the same barrier perturbation procedures. The penetration of SA was not significantly different between locations. In conclusion, using microdialysis in the dermis to obtain real-time dermal pharmacokinetics in the target organ, this study demonstrates highly increased and differentiated cutaneous penetration of SA in barrier-perturbed skin. The measured drug penetration was demonstrated to correlate with non-invasive quantification of barrier damage.     

Transepidermal potassium ion, chloride ion, and water flux across delipidized and cellophane tape-stripped skin

The skin barrier was evaluated as a function of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and electrolyte loss. Combination electrodes for chloride and pH determinations and a potassium ion electrode were utilized. Delipidization of the skin did not impair the electrolyte barrier, but did damage the epidermal water barrier. Cellophane tape stripping of normal stratum corneum resulted in an increase in outward transepidermal potassium and chloride ion flux, an increase in skin surface pH, and an increase in TEWL. It appears that damage to the epidermal water barrier does not necessarily result in damage to the epidermal electrolyte barrier. We found the potassium electrode facile to use and believe that a combination potassium electrode would be useful for investigating and assessing the epidermal electrolyte barrier.     

Skin permeability barrier and occlusion: no delay of repair in irritated human skin *

It has been reported that occlusive treatment of irritated skin results in a reduction of barrier repair activities in hairless mice. In contrast, the clinically observed benefit of occlusion in the treatment of hand eczema and other chronic skin diseases with a perturbed barrier function is well–known. While the beneficial effect of occlusion has been proven for the treatment on psoriasis there are no controlled clinical studies of the effect of occlusion on irritated human skin. We have therefore evaluated the effect of various occlusive treatments on repair of the human skin permeability barrier under controlled experimental conditions. Barrier perturbation was induced either by application of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or by repeated tape stripping. This was followed by treatment with different occlusive and semipermeable dressings, partly alter pre-treatment with petrolatum. Repair of water barrier function was evaluated by daily measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for 1 week. SLS irritation and tape stripping led to a 6-fold increase in TEWL as a sign of severe water barrier perturbation, followed by a stepwise decrease over the following days. Occlusion did not significantly delay barrier repair as measured by TEWL. Only in tape-stripped skin did TEWL stay at high levels during treatment with self-adhesive dressings. This may be explained by damage of newly formed stratum corneum caused by changing of these membranes. Our results indicate that, in contrast to earlier observations in hairless mouse skin, permeability barrier repair activities are not significantly delayed by occlusive treatment in human skin.     

Effect of a lipid-rich emollient containing ceramide 3 in experimentally induced skin barrier dysfunction

In the present study we compared the effect of a ceramide 3-containing emollient (Locobase(R) Repair) with a control emollient (vaselinum album/cremor lanette ana) and untreated damaged skin using clinical, bioengineering and immunohistochemical methods in two different models of experimentally induced skin barrier dysfunction. In model A (n = 13) skin barrier dysfunction was inflicted at three investigation sites by tape stripping. In model B (n = 13) the volunteers were patch tested at three investigation sites with sodium dodecyl sulphate (0.2%) for 4 h a day for 4 consecutive days. The investigation sites were treated once a day with the above-mentioned agents. Irritant reaction was assessed daily by erythema scoring and measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5D, punch biopsies were taken from all sites. Immunohistochemical assessment was carried out with respect to epidermal proliferation, epidermal differentiation and Langerhans cells. Tape stripping resulted in an erythematous reaction and an increase of TEWL associated with up-regulation of cycling cells, involucrin and expression of cytokeratin 16. At day 4, ceramide 3-containing emollient significantly decreased (p < 0.03) the erythema score, TEWL and cycling cells in comparison with the untreated site. Repetitive exposure to SDS induced a variable degree of erythema, gradual increase of TEWL, an increase of cycling cells, and up-regulation of involucrin, E-FABP and SKALP. The treatment with the control emollient significantly prevented erythema, increase of TEWL and cycling cells at day 4 compared to the untreated site. In summary, the present study demonstrated that both tested emollients improve skin barrier in different conditions compared to the untreated skin. There is some indication that formulations containing skin-related lipids might be of benefit in barrier disruption following tape stripping. Different models and clinical trials are needed to establish the usefulness in specific conditions of emollients containing skin-related lipids.     

Olopatadine hydrochloride accelerates the recovery of skin barrier function in mice

BACKGROUND: The skin barrier function in patients with atopic dermatitis is disrupted and prolonged topical steroid therapy produces epidermal barrier disturbance. Olopatadine hydrochloride (olopatadine; Allelock; Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co., Ltd, Shizuoka, Japan) is an antiallergic drug with histamine H(1) receptor antagonistic action. This drug alleviates skin inflammation and decreases the number of scratching episodes in a murine model of chronic contact dermatitis. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the effects of olopatadine and a steroid on the recovery of skin barrier function after barrier disruption in mice. METHODS: The skin barrier of the ears of mice was disrupted by tape stripping. The recovery of skin barrier function was monitored by measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after barrier disruption. Epidermal hyperplasia was induced by repeated tape stripping for 7 days. Olopatadine was administered orally once daily from 3 days before the first barrier disruption. Betamethasone 17-valerate (betamethasone) was applied topically once daily from 3 days before barrier disruption. RESULTS: Tape stripping led to a significant increase in TEWL. TEWL decreased with time after tape stripping and the skin barrier function recovered by over 60% within 9 h after tape stripping. The recovery of skin barrier in olopatadine-treated mice was significantly accelerated, compared with that in vehicle-treated mice. In contrast, the skin barrier recovery in mice treated with topical betamethasone was significantly delayed, compared with that in vehicle-treated mice. Combined treatment with olopatadine and betamethasone ameliorated the delay in barrier recovery induced by topical treatment with betamethasone. In addition, olopatadine significantly prevented the increase in epidermal thickness induced by prolonged barrier disruption. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that systemic administration of olopatadine accelerates the recovery of skin barrier function and ameliorates the adverse effects of topical steroids on skin barrier recovery.     

Tape-stripping method in man: comparison of evaporimetric methods

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: If the occlusion time of a closed chamber evaporimeter on the skin is too long, saturation might occur. We previously compared an open chamber and a closed chamber device on healthy volunteers. Comparable data on stripped skin with higher evaporation rates are not available. This study compares the sensitivity and correlation of open and closed chamber devices in a tape-stripping human model. The amount of tape removed SC was also quantified with a protein assay method. METHODS: Ten healthy volunteers (six male and four female; seven Caucasians and three Asian; mean age 38+/-16) were enrolled. In a randomized manner, one forearm was measured by an open chamber device and the opposite by a closed chamber device. After recording baseline measurements, 20 strippings were taken on each test site with tape disks. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured at the end of 10 and 20 tape strippings at each test site. Stratum corneum (SC) aggregates in the strips was assayed. RESULTS: The mean values obtained from two devices were similar after 10 trips and 20 strips. There was no statistically significant difference. The closed chamber device showed a slightly higher (but not significant) inter-individual coefficient of variation. SC aggregates in the strips were similar and without a statistically significant difference. CONCLUSION: The study suggests that both devices might yield similar TEWL values on stripped human skin in vivo.     

Measuring transepidermal water loss: a comparative in vivo study of condenser-chamber, unventilated-chamber and open-chamber systems

Background/aims: Two main systems have been utilized for measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL): open chamber and closed chamber. Yet, further validation and standardization studies may be necessary to reveal the sensitivity, precision, and robustness of these instruments. Methods: Three instruments are compared for their applicability to assess TEWL: unventilated chamber, open chamber and condenser chamber. The comparative study was performed on human forearm skin (n=6), in the normal condition (baseline), and after (1) 10 tape strippings on both arms, (2) moisturizer cream (Eucerin^®) and petrolatum application for 1 h, and (3) 1% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) aqueous solution and distilled water (as control) application for 20 min. Results: The condenser‐chamber system, was the only device among these three that could show the effect of tape stripping on TEWL values as compared with baseline (P<0.001). The effect of moisturization, in terms of % change of TEWL values after application of cream and petrolatum, did not show significant difference between devices (P>0.05). However, only the values obtained from condenser‐chamber device revealed a highly significant change as compared with baseline (P<0.001). Condenser‐chamber system could also discriminate between the effect of moisturizer and petrolatum on TEWL values (P<0.05). The change of TEWL values after SLS application was shown to be significant by unventilated and condenser‐chamber systems (P<0.05). However, none of the devices differentiated between the effect of water and 1% SLS solution applied for 20 min. The values obtained from all three instruments correlate well with each other (P<0.001). Conclusion: Our results highlight the differences between two closed‐chamber TEWL measurement instruments, which are designed based on different measurement principles. This may provide insights to find the best practice to improve the quality, precision and sensitivity of the measurements.     

Induction of eosinophil‐ and Th2‐attracting epidermal chemokines and cutaneous late‐phase reaction in tape‐stripped skin

Abstract: Skin barrier damage induces various harmful or even protective reactions in the skin, as represented by enhancement of keratinocyte cytokine production. To investigate whether acute removal of stratum corneum modulates the production of chemokines by epidermal cells, we treated ears of BALB/c and C57BL/6 mice by tape‐stripping, or acetone‐rubbing as a control of acute barrier disruption procedure. There was no difference between the tape‐stripped and acetone‐rubbed skin sites in the increased and recovered levels of transepidermal water loss. The mRNA expression levels of all the chemokines tested, including Th1 chemokines (CXCL10, CXCL9 and CXCL11), Th2 chemokines (CCL17 and CCL22) and eosinophil chemoattractant (CCL5), were higher in the epidermal cells from BALB/c than in those of C57BL/6 mice. In particular, CCL17, CCL22 and CCL5 were remarkably elevated in BALB/c mice and augmented by tape‐stripping more markedly than acetone‐rubbing, whereas Th1 chemokines were enhanced by acetone‐rubbing more remarkably. Tape‐stripping induced dermal infiltration of eosinophils in BALB/c but not C57BL/6 mice. In a contact hypersensitivity model, where BALB/c mice were sensitized on the abdomen and challenged on the ears with fluorescein isothiocyanate, mice exhibited higher ear swelling responses at the late‐phase as well as delayed‐type reactions, when challenged via the tape‐stripped skin. The challenge via tape‐stripped skin augmented the expression of IL‐4 and CCR4 in the skin homogenated samples, indicating infiltration of Th2 cells. These findings suggest that acute barrier removal induces the expression of Th2 and eosinophil chemokines by epidermal cells and easily evokes the late phase reaction upon challenge with antigen.     

Barrier repair in chronic plaque-type psoriasis

Purpose: To investigate barrier repair after mild trauma in lesional skin of psoriasis patients with chronic plaque-type disease and to compare this with non-involved psoriatic skin and normal controls.
Methods: Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) readings were taken from involved psoriatic skin and non-involved skin of psoriasis patients as well as the skin of normal controls. Three readings were performed at each site: the basal state, immediately after 20 tape strippings and 1 week post stripping.
Results: Higher baseline, post-stripping and 1-week recovery TEWL readings in psoriatic-involved skin compared to non-involved and normal control skin. No significant difference in barrier recovery rate in psoriatic-involved skin compared to non-involved and normal control.
Conclusion: Although there appears to be a derangement of barrier function in lesional skin of psoriasis patients compared to non-lesional skin and the skin of healthy controls, the barrier recovery function of lesional psoriatic skin is still fully operational.     

Stripped skin model to predict irritation potential of topical agents in vivo in humans

Background and objective The prediction of the irritation effects of products of low irritation potential remains problematic. An in vivo human model was utilized to define the irritation potential of a topical agent after partial removal of the stratum corneum by cellophane tape stripping.
Methods The tape was applied to and removed approximately 50 times (mean, 50.0 ± 16.7) from each test site on the volar aspect of the forearm. One site served as the stripping control, receiving tape stripping only. The other test sites received the topical agent and placebo control. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured before and daily for 5 days. The TEWL values at baseline after stripping represented the point of maximal stripping barrier disruption. The barrier disruption and irritation potential were assessed with TEWL measurements.
Results The results showed that the model topical agent had no adverse effect on barrier repair, i.e. did not interfere with TEWL normalization.
Conclusions This model provides a method for the prediction, with exaggerated sensitivity, of chemical irritation and proclivity to enhance or retard water barrier repair. We believe that the model may predict the response of low irritation materials and may be more sensitive than patch testing on normal skin, particularly for products to be used on certain areas, e.g. the face, anus, etc., or even mucous membranes. The model must receive extensive use with chemicals of varying properties in order to define its chemical relevance.     

SLS-irritated human skin shows no correlation between degree of proliferation and TEWL increase

Abstract It is well known that cutaneous irritants influence epidermal proliferation but the pathogenesis is poorly understood. Recent investigations have shown that the skin barrier integrity influences the proliferation of the basal keratinocytes. Our question was whether the proliferating activity of keratinocytes is indeed regulated by the degree of skin barrier damage or by a direct toxic action of the irritant on the keratinocytes. Therefore various degrees of skin irritation were induced by the application of 0.1%, 0.5% and 2% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) solution to the forearm skin of six healthy volunteers. This experiment was performed to evaluate the relationship between SLS concentration and epidermal proliferation. In a second experiment another 14 volunteers were treated with a single SLS concentration (0.5%) to look for interindividual differences in the patterns of skin reaction and susceptibility to the irritant. Skin barrier function was evaluated by measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) before and after irritation. Punch biopsies were taken after 96 h from exposed areas and from unexposed normal skin. Dividing keratinocytes were identified immunocytochemically using three different monoclonal antibodies: PCNA, MIB 1 and KiS1. Exposure to SLS resulted in concentration-dependent increases in both TEWL and epidermal proliferation. However, no significant correlation could be found between the degree of hyperproliferation and the TEWL changes. The results suggest that epidermal proliferation is modulated by a direct interaction of the surfactant with the keratinocytes and/or by release of mediators rather than the consequence of a barrier disturbance. Received: 5 February 1997 / Received after revision: 12 August 1998 / Accepted: 24 August 1998     

Beneficial effects of a skin tolerance-tested moisturizing cream on the barrier function in experimentally-elicited irritant and allergic contact dermatitis

In experimentally-induced irritant (ICD) and allergic (ACD) contact dermatitis, an oil-in-water (o/w) cream was applied to investigate its effects on a disturbed barrier function compared to untreated physiological barrier repair. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed. Before the start of the experiments, the skin tolerance of the cream was examined, revealing the non-irritating characteristics of the ingredients and the absence of any contact allergic patch test reaction. In the ICD study, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) patches were applied to the forearms of young female volunteers. Consequently, it was observed that repeated cream application (14 days, 2x/day) significantly improved the TEWL of SLS-damaged skin, leading to a complete recovery on day 15. In the ACD study, disruption of skin barrier function was obtained by a nickel-mediated contact allergy patch (CAP) test. The cream was then applied 2x/day for 4 consecutive days. Assessment of TEWL clearly showed that recovery of the disrupted skin significantly improved after cream application in comparison to untreated barrier repair.     

Non‐invasive assessment of tryptophan fluorescence and confocal microscopy provide information on skin barrier repair dynamics beyond TEWL

The stratum corneum (SC) serves a primary function of skin barrier and understanding the kinetics of SC formation may provide great insight for skin diagnosis and evaluation of therapies. Besides trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL), few methods have been characterized to assess skin barrier non‐invasively in vivo, particularly for dynamic measurements on the same specimen over time. The objective of this study was to characterize alternative non‐invasive methods to evaluate the dynamic processes involved in the recovery of normal human SC after total removal. TEWL, tryptophan fluorescence and reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) were used to determine skin barrier function, cell turnover and epidermal morphology over a period of 10 days after total removal of the SC by tape stripping. The results show a biphasic recovery of TEWL over time, which contrasted with a linear increase of 2.3 μm/day in SC thickness. Tryptophan assessment of cell turnover also demonstrated a biphasic pattern attaining a maximum three to four times the levels of the control site 3 days after injury that slowly returned to baseline and displayed great correlation (R² > 0.95) to viable epidermis thickness that also achieved a maximum about 3 days after injury with an approximate increase of 55%. When plotting the change of TEWL versus SC thickness, a single exponential function is observed [Δ‐TEWL = 55 exp (?0.157×)] which contrasts with other proposed models. These methods were able to present rates for SC recovery processes beyond skin barrier (TEWL) that may provide new insights on kinetics of barrier formation for evaluation of skin conditions and treatments.     

Differences in stratum corneum pH gradient when comparing white caucasian and black African-American skin

This study assessed pH gradient changes in relation to stratum corneum (SC) depth and possible differences between white caucasian and black African-American skin. Ten white and eight black people entered the study. SC was progressively removed by cellophane tape stripping on the volar forearm and weighed with a microbalance. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and SC pH were measured every three tape strippings. Significantly increased TEWL and decreased pH values were found with increasing SC depth in both races. Significantly increased TEWL in black people was found after three and six tape strippings ( P  < 0.05 and 0.03, respectively); pH was significantly decreased in black people after three tape strippings ( P  < 0.005). No differences were found between the races after nine, 12 and 15 strippings, i.e. in the deeper SC layers. The data confirm that pH in the superficial SC layers decreases with SC depth; only total SC removal results in increased pH values. In the superficial layers, there are significant differences in both water evaporation and skin pH, possibly explaining the contradictory literature.     

Influence of surfactant mixtures on intercellular lipid fluidity and skin barrier function

Background/aims: Surfactant mixtures are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulas in order to establish product efficacy while maintaining mildness and skin lipids. The electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) technique of the spin labeling method with a nitroxide spin probe is a valuable method in the study of biological membranes. The objective of this study was to define the influence of surfactant mixtures on intercellular lipid fluidity and correlate EPR spectral data with in vivo safety data. Methods: EPR experiment: EPR spectra of 5-doxyl stearic acid (5-DSA) labeled stratum corneum treated with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium lauroyl glutamate (SLG) and their mixtures were measured and order parameters were calculated. Clinical testing: Fifteen healthy volunteers free of skin disease and with no history of atopic dermatitis were treated with SLS solutions (0.25%, 0.50%, 0.75%, 1.00%), 1.00% SLG solution and 1.00% surfactant mixture solutions: 0.75% SLS+0.25% SLG, 0.50% SLS+0.50% SLG, 0.25% SLS+0.75% SLG. One hundred μl of solution was applied using a polypropylene chamber for 24 h. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured with an evaporimeter before and after the application of surfactant solutions and each site was also visually graded according to Lee (1). Results: The order parameter (S) calculated from 1.00 %wt SLS treated stratum corneum was 0.56 ± 0.03, indicating disordering of lipid structure. On the contrary, the high S value (0.82 ± 0.02) for 1.00 %wt SLG suggests a reduced effect on the structured lipid, almost equaling the value of water. Treatment with 0.25 %wt, 0.50 %wt and 0.75 %wt SLS solutions revealed intermediate levels between 1.00 %wt SLG and SLS. The order parameters at each SLS concentration (0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00 %wt SLS) with 1.00 %wt SLG showed higher values than those of SLS only solutions. There were statistically significant differences between with and without 1.00 %wt SLG (P < 0.05). These results suggest that the addition of 1.00 %wt SLG inhibits the fluidization of intercellular lipid induced by SLS. The visual scores and TEWL values of 1.00% SLG solution were lower than those of the other test solutions (except for the vehicle control: deionized water). The 1.00% surfactant mixture solutions showed lower visual scores and TEWL values of the 1.00% SLS solution. An increase of SLG concentration decreased the visual scores and TEWL values. Order parameter S obtained from EPR spectra correlated with the clinical study. The correlation coefficient (r²) of visual score and TEWL values was 0.73 and 0.83, respectively. Conclusion: SLS disorder (fluidity) intercellular lipids at low concentrations, such as 0.25 %wt, presumably due to the SLS molecules being intercalated into the intercellular lipids. However, EPR spectral data suggest that the addition of 1.00 %wt SLG to an SLS solution (<1.00 %wt) inhibits the fluidization of intercellular lipid induced by SLS. A reasonable correlation between order parameters and human clinical data (visual scores and TEWL values) was observed (r²=0.73 and 0.83, respectively). The use of the EPR spin labeling method for predicting the fluidity of stratum corneum should give further insight into the mechanism of epidermal barrier disruption by surfactants and possibly other chemicals.     

Anti-inflammatory effect of pimecrolimus in the sodium lauryl sulphate test

Background Pimecrolimus is a calcineurin inhibitor used for the topical treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. We have shown previously that pimecrolimus cream is not effective on intact skin in the ultraviolet erythema test. Objective To test the anti‐inflammatory effect of pimecrolimus cream after damage of the skin barrier by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) in a randomised, placebo‐controlled, observer‐blinded study. Methods SLS (3% v/v) was applied under occlusion on the back of 36 healthy volunteers for 24 h. Subsequently, the test areas were treated for 24 h with pimecrolimus cream, 1% hydrocortisone in a hydrophilic ointment, and the vehicle alone over three consecutive days. One control area remained untreated. The erythema index and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) served as readout parameters to assess the SLS‐induced skin irritation. Results Pimecrolimus cream and 1% hydrocortisone cream significantly reduced the SLS‐induced erythema. The two test preparations did not have a significant effect on the TEWL. Conclusion After damage to the skin barrier by SLS, pimecrolimus seems to penetrate into the skin as shown by a reduction of the irritation‐induced erythma. These data further support the notion that pimecrolimus is selectively effective in the treatment of skin disorders with an impaired function of the epidermal barrier.