Specificity in the alteration of lesional and non-lesional skin lipids in atopic dogs

The present paper is in the same time an overview of the literature concerning the alterations of lipids in the stratum corneum(SC) of atopic dogs and a review of data based on our publications. Knowing the importance of the SC barrier function for against pathogens in atopic dermatitis, we show for the first time a detailed biochemical analysis of lipids corresponding to the same amount of proteins in the successive layers of canine SC taken using tape stripping and their specificity as compared to humans. Also we show new results concerning the changes in the composition for proteinbound ceramides, and for the other lipids in involved and non-involved skin areas in atopic dogs. We show how a topical or oral treatment can restore the SC lipid composition and reconstruct the barrier integrity by upregulating the biosynthesis of protein-bound ceramides.     

Atopic dermatitis in dogs is associated with a high heterogeneity in the distribution of protein-bound lipids within the stratum corneum

The stratum corneum (SC) was taken from five atopic dogs by tape stripping (12 strips) of non-lesional areas of the abdomen. The free and protein-bound lipids were extracted and analyzed by thin-layer chromatography after fractionation on aminopropyl-bonded silica gel columns. A very frequent feature was the heterogeneity in the lipid content of consecutive layers. This was even more accentuated for the covalently bound lipids, with variations from one layer to another in the concentrations of cholesterol, omega hydroxylated ceramides and omega hydroxylated long-chain fatty acids. Among the free lipids, large amounts of glucosylceramides were present in canine atopic SC although they are nearly absent from the SC of normal dogs. A heterogeneous distribution of lipids was seen in canine atopic SC. These results suggest that strikingly deep variations occur in the lipid metabolism of keratinocytes in the skin of atopic dogs. In order to gain insight into this phenomenon, further studies should be focused on the activity of enzymes involved in both biosynthetic and catabolic processes.     

Barrier Repair Therapy in Atopic Dermatitis: An Overview

Atopic eczema or dermatitis (AD) is a chronically relapsing dermatitis associated with pruritus, sleep disturbance, psychosocial symptoms, and impaired quality of life. It affects 10–20 % of school-aged children, and there is evidence to suggest that this prevalence is increasing. Filaggrin (filament-aggregating protein) has an important function in epidermal differentiation and barrier function. Null mutations within the filaggrin gene cause ichthyosis vulgaris and appear to be a major risk factor for developing AD. The affected skin of atopic individuals is deficient in filaggrin degradation products or ceramides. Avoidance of triggering factors, optimal skin care, topical corticosteroids, and calcineurin inhibitors are the mainstays of therapy for AD. Proper moisturizer therapy can reduce the frequency and intensity of flares, as well as the need for topical corticosteroids or topical calcineurin inhibitors. Recent advances in the understanding of the pathophysiological process of AD involving filaggrin and ceramides has led to the concept of barrier therapy and the production of new moisturizers and topical skin products targeted to correct reduced amounts of ceramides and natural moisturizing factors in the skin with natural moisturizing factors, ceramides, and pseudoceramide products. Emollients, both creams and ointments, improve the barrier function of the stratum corneum by providing it with water and lipids. Studies on AD and barrier repair treatment show that adequate lipid replacement therapy reduces the inflammation and restores epidermal function. We reviewed 12 randomized trials and 11 cohort studies and found some evidence that certain products had therapeutic efficacy in improving clinical and/or biophysical parameters of patients with AD. Nevertheless, study methods were often flawed and sample sizes were small. Additional research is warranted to better understand the optimal formulary compositions. Also, long-term studies would be important to evaluate whether lipid barrier replacement therapy reduces bacterial colonization or prevents progression of the atopic march.     

The skin: an indispensable barrier

Abstract: The skin forms an effective barrier between the organism and the environment preventing invasion of pathogens and fending off chemical and physical assaults, as well as the unregulated loss of water and solutes. In this review we provide an overview of several components of the physical barrier, explaining how barrier function is regulated and altered in dermatoses. The physical barrier is mainly localized in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of protein‐enriched cells (corneocytes with cornified envelope and cytoskeletal elements, as well as corneodesmosomes) and lipid‐enriched intercellular domains. The nucleated epidermis also contributes to the barrier through tight, gap and adherens junctions, as well as through desmosomes and cytoskeletal elements. During epidermal differentiation lipids are synthesized in the keratinocytes and extruded into the extracellular domains, where they form extracellular lipid‐enriched layers. The cornified cell envelope, a tough protein/lipid polymer structure, resides below the cytoplasmic membrane on the exterior of the corneocytes. Ceramides A and B are covalently bound to cornified envelope proteins and form the backbone for the subsequent addition of free ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol in the SC. Filaggrin is cross‐linked to the cornified envelope and aggregates keratin filaments into macrofibrils. Formation and maintenance of barrier function is influenced by cytokines, 3′,5′‐cyclic adenosine monophosphate and calcium. Changes in epidermal differentiation and lipid composition lead to a disturbed skin barrier, which allows the entry of environmental allergens, immunological reaction and inflammation in atopic dermatitis. A disturbed skin barrier is important for the pathogenesis of contact dermatitis, ichthyosis, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.     

The importance of free fatty acid chain length for the skin barrier function in atopic eczema patients

An important feature of atopic eczema (AE) is a decreased skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipids – comprised of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs) and cholesterol – fulfil a predominant role in the skin barrier function. In this clinical study, the carbon chain length distribution of SC lipids (FFAs and CERs) and their importance for the lipid organization and skin barrier function were examined in AE patients and compared with control subjects. A reduction in FFA chain length and an increase in unsaturated FFAs are observed in non‐lesional and lesional SC of AE patients. The reduction in FFA chain length associates with a reduced CER chain length, suggesting a common synthetic pathway. The lipid chain length reduction correlates with a less dense lipid organization and a decreased skin barrier function. All changes are more pronounced in lesional SC compared with non‐lesional skin. No association was observed between lipid properties and filaggrin mutations, an important predisposing factor for developing AE. The results of this study demonstrate an altered SC lipid composition and signify the importance of these changes (specifically regarding the CER and FFA chain lengths) for the impaired skin barrier function in AE. This provides insights into epidermal lipid metabolism as well as new opportunities for skin barrier repair.     

Mechanisms by which psychologic stress alters cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity

Although many skin disorders, including psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, are adversely affected by psychologic stress (PS), the pathophysiologic link between PS and disease expression remains unclear. Recent studies demonstrated PS-induced alterations in permeability barrier homeostasis, mediated by increased endogenous glucocorticoids. Here, we assessed the mechanisms by which PS alters stratum corneum (SC) function. Insomniac psychologic stress (IPS) altered both barrier homeostasis and SC integrity. IPS decreased epidermal cell proliferation, impaired epidermal differentiation, and decreased the density and size of corneodesmosomes (CD), which was linked to degradation of CD proteins (e.g., desmoglein1). Barrier compromise was linked to decreased production and secretion of lamellar bodies (LB), which in turn could be attributed to a decrease in de novo synthesis of epidermal lipids. Topical physiologic lipids (equimolar cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids) normalized both barrier homeostasis and SC integrity in IPS mice, further evidence that lipid deficiency accounted for these functional abnormalities. Thus, PS inhibition of epidermal lipid synthesis results in decreased LB formation and secretion, as well as decreased CD, compromising both permeability barrier homeostasis and SC integrity. These studies suggest that topical treatment with epidermal physiologic lipids could be beneficial in stress-induced, barrier-associated dermatoses, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.     

Alteration of stratum corneum ceramide profiles in spontaneous canine model of atopic dermatitis

Ceramides (CERs) in the stratum corneum (SC) are thought to play a key role in cutaneous barrier function. It has been reported that human SC contains 11 free CER classes and that their profiles are altered in humans with atopic dermatitis (AD). Although decreased proportions of free CERs or quantities of protein-bound CERs in the SC have been reported in dogs with AD, the overall profile of CERs in the canine SC has not been fully elucidated. The aim of this study was thus to investigate the profile of free CERs in the canine SC and to identify alterations in the CER profiles in dogs with AD. Normal-phase liquid chromatography-electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry indicated 11 clusters of peaks for free CER classes, similar to those recognized in the human SC. The fractions of free SC CER in dogs with AD and in breed- and age-matched healthy dogs were quantitatively compared using high-performance thin-layer chromatography. CER[EOS], CER[EOP] and CER[NP], which are known to be decreased in the skin of humans with AD, were also decreased in the skin of dogs with AD. These findings highlight canine AD as a spontaneous animal model for investigating the disruption of CER-associated cutaneous barrier functions in the corresponding human disease.     

Topical acidic cream prevents the development of atopic dermatitis‐ and asthma‐like lesions in murine model

Long‐standing or repeated skin barrier damage followed by atopic dermatitis (AD) is the initial step of the atopic march that eventually progresses to respiratory allergies. Maintenance of an acidic pH in the stratum corneum (SC) is an important factor for normal skin barrier function. We performed this study to determine whether an oxazolone (Ox)‐induced AD murine model can develop airway inflammation by topical application and nasal inhalation of a house dust mite, Dermatofagoides pteronyssinus (Dp), which is a novel ‘atopic march animal model’, and whether an acidic SC environment, made by repeated application of acidic cream, can interrupt this atopic march. During repeated treatment with Ox and Dp to make an atopic march murine model, acidic cream (pH 2.8) and neutral cream (pH 7.4) adjusted by citric acid and sodium hydroxide mixed with vehicle were applied twice daily. Repeated treatment with Ox and Dp to hairless mice induced AD‐like skin lesions followed by respiratory allergy, defining it as an atopic march model. Acidic cream inhibited the occurrence of respiratory allergic inflammation as well as AD‐like skin lesions. These results indicate that a novel atopic march animal model can be developed by repeated topical and nasal treatments with house dust mite on Ox‐induced AD mice and that the acidification of SC could be a novel intervention method to block the atopic march.     

Lipids and skin barrier function--a clinical perspective

The stratum corneum (SC) protects us from dehydration and external dangers. Much is known about the morphology of the SC and penetration of drugs through it, but the data are mainly derived from in vitro and animal experiments. In contrast, only a few studies have the human SC lipids as their focus and in particular, the role of barrier function in the pathogenesis of skin disease and its subsequent treatment protocols. The 3 major lipids in the SC of importance are ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. Human studies comparing levels of the major SC lipids in patients with atopic dermatitis and healthy controls have suggested a possible role for ceramide 1 and to some extent ceramide 3 in the pathogenesis of the disease. Therapies used in diseases involving barrier disruption have been sparely investigated from a lipid perspective. It has been suggested that ultraviolet light as a treatment increases the amount of all 3 major SC lipids, while topical glucocorticoids may lead to a decrease. Such effects may influence the clinical outcome of treatment in diseases with impaired barrier function. We have, therefore, conducted a review of the literature on SC lipids from a clinical perspective. It may be concluded that the number of human studies is very limited, and in the perspective of how important diseases of impaired barrier function are in dermatology, further research is needed.     

Distinct barrier integrity phenotypes in filaggrin-related atopic eczema following sequential tape stripping and lipid profiling

Background Filaggrin gene (FLG) loss‐of‐function mutations have been shown to represent the strongest so far known genetic risk factor for atopic dermatitis (AD). Whereas the barrier characteristics in FLG mutation carriers under baseline conditions have been investigated, there are only limited data on the permeability barrier function in filaggrin‐AD under compromised conditions. Aim We investigated: (i) stratum corneum (SC) integrity/cohesion; (ii) barrier recovery after controlled mechanical and irritant‐induced barrier abrogation; and (iii) the lipid composition of the non‐lesional and lesional skin of AD patients harbouring the European R501X, 2282del4, 3702delG, R2447X or S3247X FLG variants. Methods Thirty‐seven AD patients (14 FLG mutation carriers and 23 non‐carriers) and 20 healthy controls participated in the study. Stratum corneum integrity/cohesion was assessed by measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and amount of removed protein following sequential tape stripping. Barrier recovery was monitored by repeated measurements of TEWL and erythema up to 96 h after barrier abrogation. Samples for lipid analysis were obtained from non‐lesional and lesional skin using the cyanoacrylate method. Results Tape stripping revealed distinct genotype‐related impairment of the SC integrity/cohesion. No differences in the rate of barrier recovery among the groups were found. The SC lipid analysis revealed significant differences regarding the percentage amount of cholesterol, ceramide/cholesterol ratio and triglycerides in the uninvolved skin as well as the amounts of free fatty acids, CER[EOH] and triglycerides in the skin lesions of the AD FLG mutation carriers. Conclusions Our results provide evidence for discernible FLG‐related barrier integrity phenotypes in atopic eczema.     

Acidification of stratum corneum prevents the progression from atopic dermatitis to respiratory allergy

The presence of congenitally impaired skin barrier followed by atopic dermatitis (AD) is an initial step in the atopic march. The maintenance of acidic pH in the stratum corneum (SC) has been suggested as a therapeutic or preventive strategy for barrier impairment caused by skin inflammation. To determine whether an AD murine model, flaky tail mice, with inherited filaggrin deficiency could develop airway inflammation by repeated topical application followed by nasal inhalation of house dust mite (HDM) antigen (defined as a novel “atopic march animal model”), and whether maintenance of an acidic SC environment by continuous application of acidic cream could interrupt the following atopic march. During the course of HDM treatment, acidic cream (pH2.8) or neutral cream (pH7.4) was applied to flaky tail mice twice daily. Repeated applications and inhalations of HDM to flaky tail mice induced AD skin lesions followed by respiratory allergies. Maintenance of SC acidity inhibited the occurrence of respiratory allergic inflammation as well as AD‐like skin lesions. Collectively, a novel atopic march model could be developed by repeated epicutaneous and nasal applications of HDM to flaky tail mice, and that the acidification of SC could prevent the atopic march from AD to respiratory allergy.     

Role of Ceramides in Barrier Function of Healthy and Diseased Skin

Stratum corneum intercellular lipids play an important role in the regulation of skin water barrier homeostasis and water-holding capacity. Modification of intercellular lipid organization and composition may impair these properties. Patients with skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, contact dermatitis, and some genetic disorders have diminished skin barrier function. Lipid composition in diseased skin is characterized by decreased levels of ceramide and altered ceramide profiles. To clarify mechanisms underlying ceramides as a causative factor of skin disease, investigators have examined the activity of enzymes in the stratum corneum on ceramide production and degradation. The activities of ceramidase, sphingomyelin deacylase, and glucosylceramide deacylase are increased in epidermal atopic dermatitis. Investigators have also compared the expression levels of sphingolipid activator protein in the epidermis of normal and diseased skin. A decreased level of prosaposin has been identified in both atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. These results indicate that decreased ceramide level is a major etiologic factor in skin diseases. Hence, topical skin lipid supplementation may provide opportunities for controlling ceramide deficiency and improving skin condition.     

The Effect of Gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) Extract on the Stratum Corneum Hydration and Ceramides Content in Atopic Dermatitis Patients

Background

A disruption of the balance between the water content of the stratum corneum (SC) and skin surface lipids may lead to the clinical manifestation of dryness of skin in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD).

Objective

To determine whether supplementation of gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon), one of herbs used in East Asia in remedies for various abnormal skin conditions, may improve the SC level of hydration and ceramides, major lipid in SC in patients with AD.

Methods

A total of 28 subjects with AD were randomly assigned into two groups: either gromwell group received dextrose contained capsules with 1.5 g of gromwell extracts or placebo group received only dextrose contained capsules for 10 weeks.

Results

In contrast to no alteration of SC hydration and ceramides in placebo group, the SC hydration in gromwell group was significantly increased in parallel with an increase of SC ceramides. Furthermore, % increase of SC hydration in gromwell group bore a positive correlation with the clinical severity, which suggests that the increase of SC hydration in gromwell group was more effective as AD was more severe.

Conclusion

Supplementation of gromwell improves SC hydration in parallel with an increase of ceramides in part.     

Atopic xerosis: employment of noninvasive biophysical instrumentation for the functional analyses of the mildly abnormal stratum corneum and for the efficacy assessment of skin care products

The subtle dryness of the skin surrounding the lesions of atopic dermatitis (AD) is called atopic dry skin or atopic xerosis (AX). AX is more susceptible to the development of AD skin lesions under various environmental stimuli than the clinically normal skin of the people who have or have had or will have AD, which might be called normal atopic skin (NAS) that shows no functional differences as compared to the skin of normal individuals. Routine histopathologic studies of AX that involve the invasive procedures of biopsy are not so helpful in clarifying the underlying pathogenesis. Modern, noninvasive biophysical instrumentation provides rich and quantitative information about various functional aspects of skin. The stratum corneum (SC) of AX reveals not only decreased hydration but also mildly impaired barrier function demonstrable as an increase in transepidermal water loss, elevated pH values, and an increased turnover rate of the SC consisting of thick layers of smaller-sized corneocytes. These data suggest that AX is related to mildly increased epidermal proliferation as a result of the presence of subclinical cutaneous inflammation. Although AX skin does not display any impairment in the recovery of barrier function after physical skin irritation by tape-stripping, it produces a much more severe, long-lasting inflammatory response together with a delay in barrier repair after chemical irritation such as that induced by sodium lauryl sulphate. The SC of AX is biochemically characterized by reduction in the amounts of ceramides, especially ceramide I, sebum lipids, and water-soluble amino acids. None of these changes in SC functions are seen in NAS, which includes not only the normal-looking skin of AD patients long after regression of all active lesions but also of latent atopic skin such as neonates who later develop AD. This suggests that all of the observed functional as well as biochemical abnormalities of AX are a reflection of subclinical inflammation. The presence of the underlying inflammation in AX also differentiates it from senile xerosis. The mildly impaired SC functions of AX can be improved by daily repeated applications of effective moisturizers, i.e., corneotherapy, which is effective in preventing the exacerbating progression of AX to AD resulting from inadvertent scratching of the skin that facilitates the penetration of environmental allergens into the skin. The biophysical confirmation of such efficacy of moisturizers, including cosmetic bases on the mildly impaired barrier function and decreased water-holding capacity of the SC of AX, definitely substantiates the importance of skin care for the cosmetic skin problems that affect every individual in the cold and dry season ranging from late autumn to early spring.     

The effect of liposomes on skin barrier structure.

The present work deals with the 'in vivo' stripping technique to evaluate the percutaneous absorption of sodium fluorescein (NaFl) vehiculized in two different liposome preparations formed by phosphatidylcholine (PC) and lipids mimicking the stratum corneum (SC; ceramides, cholesterol, palmitic acid and cholesteryl sulphate), respectively. Furthermore, the possible effect of these vesicles on the SC lipid alkyl chain conformational order were evaluated at different depths of SC by non-invasive biophysical techniques: Corneometer, Tewameter and especially ATR-FTIR. The results of NaFl percutaneous absorption indicate the highest penetration in the case of incorporation in PC liposomes, which could be related to the increase in SC lipid disorder detected by ATR-FTIR, i.e. a decrease in skin barrier function. On the other hand, SC lipid liposomes have been shown to have a higher affinity for SC owing to the high amount of NaFl found in this layer, suggesting a greater reservoir capacity of SC when similar lipid composition formulation is applied. A lipid order increase is observed by infrared spectroscopy, when these types of liposomes are topically applied, resulting in a strong barrier effect. These results could be useful in designing specific liposomal topical applications.     

Raman spectroscopy: feasibility of in vivo survey of stratum corneum lipids, effect of natural aging

The main function of the stratum corneum (SC) is for protection against external aggression. This is described as the barrier function. It mainly depends on the presence of a lipid matrix composed of ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and its derivatives in the intercellular spaces. Previous studies have reported the application of Raman spectroscopy to reveal the organization of SC lipids and the state of their barrier functions. Several spectral features are directly informative about the lateral packing and the conformational order. In this work, in vivo Raman spectroscopy is used to asses the state of the SC lipid content and thus its barrier function, directly on the skin. To study the effect of natural aging on the organization of these lipids, spectra were collected from the internal side of the forearms of twenty volunteers aged from 22 to 64. Multivariate data processing enabled separation of the in vivo spectra according to the volunteers' ages. Spectral signatures show small variations, indicating a slight change in the lateral packing of SC lipids with aging of the skin.     

Ceramides and skin function

Ceramides are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lamellar sheets are thought to provide the barrier property of the epidermis. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid domain is composed of approximately equimolar concentrations of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Ceramides are a structurally heterogeneous and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation, saturation etc. are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids. It is well known that ceramides play an essential role in structuring and maintaining the water permeability barrier function of the skin. In conjunction with the other stratum corneum lipids, they form ordered structures. An essential factor is the physical state of the lipid chains in the nonpolar regions of the bilayers. The stratum corneum intercellular lipid lamellae, the aliphatic chains in the ceramides and the fatty acids are mostly straight long-chain saturated compounds with a high melting point and a small polar head group. This means that at physiological temperatures, the lipid chains are mostly in a solid crystalline or gel state, which exhibits low lateral diffusional properties and is less permeable than the state of liquid crystalline membranes, which are present at higher temperatures. The link between skin disorders and changes in barrier lipid composition, especially in ceramides, is difficult to prove because of the many variables involved. However, most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content with some differences in the ceramide pattern. Formulations containing lipids identical to those in skin and, in particular, some ceramide supplementation could improve disturbed skin conditions. Incomplete lipid mixtures yield abnormal lamellar body contents, and disorder intercellular lamellae, whereas complete lipid mixtures result in normal lamellar bodies and intercellular bilayers. The utilization of physiological lipids according to these parameters have potential as new forms of topical therapy for dermatoses. An alternative strategy to improving barrier function by topical application of the various mature lipid species is to enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.     

Knock‐down of filaggrin does not affect lipid organization and composition in stratum corneum of reconstructed human skin equivalents

Human skin mainly functions as an effective barrier against unwanted environmental influences. The barrier function strongly relies on the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), which is composed of corneocytes embedded in an extracellular lipid matrix. The importance of a proper barrier function is shown in various skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis (AD), a complex human skin disorder strongly associated with filaggrin (FLG) null mutations, but their role in barrier function is yet unclear. To study the role of FLG in SC barrier properties in terms of SC lipid organization and lipid composition, we generated an N/TERT‐based 3D‐skin equivalent (NSE) after knock‐down of FLG with shRNA. In these NSEs, we examined epidermal morphogenesis by evaluating the expression of differentiation markers keratin 10, FLG, loricrin and the proliferation marker ki67. Furthermore, the SC was extensively analysed for lipid organization, lipid composition and SC permeability. Our results demonstrate that FLG knock‐down (FLG‐KD) did not affect epidermal morphogenesis, SC lipid organization, lipid composition and SC permeability for a lipophilic compound in NSEs. Therefore, our findings indicate that FLG‐KD alone does not necessarily affect the functionality of a proper barrier function.     

Stratum corneum and nail lipids in patients with atopic dermatitis. Decrease in ceramides--a pathogenetic factor in atopic xerosis?

Dry skin is seen in many patients with atopic dermatitis and correlates with a disturbed epidermal barrier function demonstrated by such features as increased transepidermal water loss and diminished stratum corneum hydration. With regard to the importance of stratum corneum lipids for the permeability barrier, we have analysed plantar (n = 8) and lumbar (n = 20) stratum corneum and nail lipids (n = 15) of atopic subjects by high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC). Compared with controls our investigations show a decrease in the ceramide fraction as a percentage of total lipid and a diminished ratio of ceramides and free sterols in atopic subjects. This implies that impaired ceramide synthesis may be a factor in the pathogenesis of atopic xerosis.     

Topically applied fatty acids are elongated before incorporation in the stratum corneum lipid matrix in compromised skin

In several skin diseases, both the lipid composition and organization in the stratum corneum (SC) are altered which contributes to the impaired skin barrier function in patients. One of the approaches for skin barrier repair is treatment with topical formulations to normalize SC lipid composition and organization. Vernix caseosa (VC), a white cheesy cream on the skin during gestational delivery, has shown to enhance skin barrier repair. In this study, we examined how a fatty acid (FA) containing formulation mimicking the lipid composition of VC interacts with the lipid matrix in the SC. The formulation was applied on ex vivo human skin after SC removal. Subsequently, the ex vivo human skin generated SC during culture. The effect of FA containing formulations on the lipid organization and composition in the regenerated SC was analysed by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and liquid chromatography mass spectroscopy (LC/MS), respectively. FTIR results demonstrate that the FAs are intercalated in the lipid matrix of the regenerated SC and partition in the same lattice with the endogenous SC lipids, thereby enhancing the fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic (very dense) packing in the SC. LC/MS data show that the topically applied FAs are elongated before intercalation in the lipid matrix and are thus involved in the lipid biosynthesis in the skin.