An overview of unwanted female hair

Unwanted facial hair (UFH) is an important but often overlooked issue, with over 40% of women experiencing some degree of UFH. In the female population a wide spectrum of unwanted hair concerns is represented - from biologically normal but undesirable to excessive unwanted hair with an underlying pathology. While women may seek to manage unwanted hair across their bodies, UFH is a particular concern, due to its negative impact on perceived femininity. There may not always be a direct correlation between degree of severity diagnosed objectively by the physician and level of concern and impact upon the patient. This review discusses the spectrum of facial hair experience and outlines the clinical approach to unwanted hair management including UFH. It highlights the importance of a treatment regimen which should respond to the causation factors and needs of the individual. This will lead to a holistic treatment approach including evaluation of the implementation of emotional coping strategies and on-going support, lifestyle modifications, pharmacological interventions (to address underlying pathologies) and the use of cosmetic hair removal methods as either a stand-alone or adjunct treatment as appropriate to the individual.     

A9. Excess hair: physical and pharmacological treatments

The growth of unwanted hair can be aesthetically distressing and may psychologically affect both women and men. For centuries, numerous techniques have been employed for this indication. ¹ Modern medicine has developed effective physical and pharmacological methods for the removal of unwanted hair.
Laser technology and the principle of selective photothermolysis offers a new approach. ² Pigmented hair bulbs selectively absorb pulsed laser light of wavelenghts ranging from visible red light to low infrared. Light converts to heat and thermally damages the pigmented hair bulb without affecting the surrounding tissue. The follicular epithelium regenerates slowly and regrowth may occur. Nevertheless, the new hair will be thinner and softer. Depending on the anagen/telogen ratio of various body sites, two or more treatment sessions are required. Pharmacological hair reduction can be achieved by long-term treatment with antiandrogens or may be based on blocking of the mitotic activity of the follicular epithelium. Eflornithine, in a 13.9% cream preparation thinly applied twice daily, blocks ornithine decarboxylase, an enzyme needed for the synthesis of polyamines, the main source of the hair shaft. ³
Following an average of 2 treatment sessions with the diode laser, sufficient reduction of pigmented hair can be achieved for a mean period of 8 months. Applied topically, Eflornithine is able to reduce the growth of pigmented or unpigmented hair to an extent of at least 50% when applied over a longer period.
Compared with conventional mechanical, chemical, and other physical epilatory procedures, modern hair reduction – either laser assisted or pharmacologically-based – represents highly effective treatment options for the reduction of unwanted hair growth.     

Photo-assisted epilation--review and personal observations

The perception of unwanted hair is culturally dependent, and its removal is a multibillion-dollar business in North America each year. Examples of hair removal techniques on the market today include shaving, depilatories, wax, epilation, electrolysis and photo-epilation. Electrolysis, or electrothermolysis, was the only known permanent hair removal modality to date. However, long term or permanent hair removal with lasers is becoming a reality for treatment of hirsuitism or unwanted hair. Laser hair removal is an exciting new field with improvements occurring continually, making it difficult to stay abreast of the newest treatments and their effectiveness. This review provides an overview of hair follicle anatomy, mechanisms of photo-destruction to hair follicles and physics of lasers and the skin. The different types of lasers used for hair removal, their mechanisms and clinical research are reviewed.     

Photo-assisted epilation — review and personal observations

The perception of unwanted hair is culturally dependent, and its removal is a multibillion-dollar business in North America each year. Examples of hair removal techniques on the market today include shaving, depilatories, wax, epilation, electrolysis and photoepilation. Electrolysis, or electrothermolysis, was the only known permanent hair removal modality to date. However, long term or permanent hair removal with lasers is becoming a reality for treatment of hirsuitism or unwanted hair. Laser hair removal is an exciting new field with improvements occurring continually, making it difficult to stay abreast of the newest treatments and their effectiveness. This review provides an overview of hair follicle anatomy, mechanisms of photodestruction to hair follicles and physics of lasers and the skin. The different types of lasers used for hair removal, their mechanisms and clinical research are reviewed.     

Intense pulsed light treatment of hirsutism: case reports of skin phototypes V and VI

Removal of unwanted hair is a common cosmetic concern. For hirsute women, treatment often requires drug therapy and various methods to physically remove the hair. Traditional methods of hair removal include shaving, waxing, tweezing, depilatory creams and electrolysis. Hair removal methods based on light technology, such as lasers and intense pulsed light systems, are alternative methods for longer-term hair removal. Intense pulsed light has been used in our clinic during the past 2 years to treat light-to-dark skinned patients, including skin types V and VI. We present here the treatment, using an intense pulsed light source, of three dark skinned patients with hirsutism. Patients were treated during multiple sessions (five to seven) for unwanted facial hair. Sessions were conducted monthly and patients were evaluated at follow-up sessions 2–7 months after the final treatment. Successful clearance of unwanted hair was achieved in all three patients with no pigmentary changes observed during the final follow-up sessions. Folliculitis and hyperpigmentation from tweezing were also treated by the intense pulsed light source. These results suggest that intense pulsed light is an effective source for hair removal and may, with proper parameter selection, be useful in the treatment of very dark skin types.     

Intense pulsed light treatment of hirsutism: case reports of skin phototypes V and VI

Removal of unwanted hair is a common cosmetic concern. For hirsute women, treatment often requires drug therapy and various methods to physically remove the hair. Traditional methods of hair removal include shaving, waxing, tweezing, depilatory creams and electrolysis. Hair removal methods based on light technology, such as lasers and intense pulsed light systems, are alternative methods for longer-term hair removal. Intense pulsed light has been used in our clinic during the past 2 years to treat light-to-dark skinned patients, including skin types V and VI. We present here the treatment, using an intense pulsed light source, of three dark skinned patients with hirsutism. Patients were treated during multiple sessions (five to seven) for unwanted facial hair. Sessions were conducted monthly and patients were evaluated at follow-up sessions 2-7 months after the final treatment. Successful clearance of unwanted hair was achieved in all three patients with no pigmentary changes observed during the final follow-up sessions. Folliculitis and hyperpigmentation from tweezing were also treated by the intense pulsed light source. These results suggest that intense pulsed light is an effective source for hair removal and may, with proper parameter selection, be useful in the treatment of very dark skin types.     

Physical means of treating unwanted hair

Unwanted facial and body hair is a common problem, generating a high level of interest for treatment innovations. A wide range of modalities for the management of unwanted hair have been advocated over the years with varying degrees of clinical success. Most recently, lasers and light sources have been used to address this problem with improved clinical success rates in properly selected patients. The full range of temporary and permanent hair removal techniques will be outlined in this review of physical means of treating unwanted hair.     

Epilation today: physiology of the hair follicle and clinical photo-epilation

Despite the variations of length and type of hair (vellus or terminal), the growth of human hair in all body sites is cyclic. Phases of active hair growth, or anagen, are separated by periods of quiescence, or telogen. The duration of both phases varies greatly depending on the body site. Whether hairs are in anagen/telogen at the time of hair removal is important because only anagen hairs are particularly sensible to physical insults. Photo-epilation is a technique for long-term removal of unwanted hair by thermal destruction of the hair follicle and its reproductive system (stems cells). As melanin is the main chromophor existing in hair follicles the corresponding wavelength spectrum would range from ultraviolet up to infrared light. Furthermore longer wavelengths are preferred as the cromophor lies deep in the skin and the penetration of light is increasing with the wavelength. Thus, in the range of 600-1100 nm melanin absorption may be used for selective photothermolysis of hair follicles. Yet to be resolved questions for permanent destruction are the location of the key follicular target and the possible influence of the hair growth cycle on photothermolysis-induced hair removal. An overview on the individual physiology of the hair follicle is given to discuss the latest strategies for photo-epilation.     

Patient satisfaction study of unwanted facial and body hair: 5 years experience with intense pulsed light

OBJECTIVE : This retrospective study was performed in order to evaluate patient satisfaction with epilation using an intense pulsed light source. METHODS : Between 1995 and 2000, 416 patients consulted the authors' practice because of unwanted facial and body hair. A total of 309 patients received treatment with a non-coherent, filtered flashlamp intense pulsed light source. In February 2000, a questionnaire was mailed to each patient and 207 replies were obtained. RESULTS : Overall, 45 (22%) of patients were very satisfied, 93 (45%) were satisfied and 69 (33%) remained unsatisfied with the outcome of light-assisted hair removal. The non-coherent, filtered flashlamp intense pulsed light source satisfactorily removed unwanted dark hair. Hair-free periods from weeks to years could be observed. CONCLUSION : Hair removal by a non-coherent, filtered flashlamp intense pulsed light source is an effective and safe method for long-term epilation of unwanted hair. This technique offers a more reliable and practical solution than any other hair removal method, especially for patients with skin irritation and ingrown hair.     

Photoepilation: a growing trend in laser-assisted cosmetic dermatology

Excess hair is an age-old condition plaguing both men and women alike, of all races. Conditions such as hirsutism or hypertrichosis, procedures that involve grafted donor sites, transsexual transformations from male to female, and genetics are all responsible for excess or unwanted hair. Previous options for people seeking to remove or lessen the presence of hair have either been painful or resulted in short-term hair removal. With the recent advent of laser technology, hair removal has been added to the many capabilities of the new generation nonablative lasers and light systems. Lasers are not yet a permanent solution for hair removal, but they are able to provide a safe, fast, and effective method of hair reduction.     

Is paradoxical hair growth caused by low-level radiant exposure by home-use laser and intense pulsed light devices?

Introduction and objectives: This qualitative review of paradoxical hair growth, following professional treatments reviews, clarifies whether low fluence is the most probable cause of unwanted hair regrowth after at home light-based treatments. Materials and methods: The proposed causes of unexpected hair regrowth are examined, and our scientific understanding of absorption and scattering of light in turbid tissue is reviewed. Published reports of paradoxical hair growth are assessed. Results: Early laser hair removal studies failed to record the occurrence of hair induction despite the significant numbers of subjects treated. Neither published paradoxical hair growth studies following home-based laser or intense pulsed light (IPL) hair removal treatments, nor randomised or controlled studies documenting paradoxical hair growth following professional treatments could be found. Several authors directly proposed inflammatory response to be the primary cause of hair growth induction. Conclusions: It is unlikely that hair regrowth several centimetres or more away from the irradiated tissue can be attributed to the laser or IPL used. In many cases of paradoxical hair growth, other causes may be responsible for the unexpected hair growth. The primary cause of instances of ‘true’ paradoxical hair growth is probably limited to darker phototypes with one or more other characteristics including polycystic ovarian syndrome or other androgen hormonal irregularities following high energy treatments with the corresponding inflammatory sequelae.     

Laser hair removal

The presence of unwanted hair continues to plague many individuals for whom traditional methods of hair removal remain unsatisfactory. Laser and flashlamp technology now offers the potential for rapid, safe, and effective treatment of unwanted hair. An ever-increasing number of published studies have confirmed the long-term efficacy of laser and flashlamp treatment. For the most part, however, the benefits of this technology have been limited to individuals with dark hair and relatively fair skin. The remaining challenge is to develop the means to eliminate light-colored hair as well as the capability to safely treat individuals with darker skin. The rapid pace of technological advancement as well as continued studies of hair follicle biology promise to improve this field over the years to come.     

Hypertrichosis in females applying minoxidil topical solution and in normal controls

BACKGROUND: Hypertrichosis has been reported more frequently in females than in males who use minoxidil topical solution (MTS) for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia (AGA). This article examines the occurrence of MTS-induced hypertrichosis in females. METHODS: Data from placebo-controlled clinical trials in females (up to 5% MTS) were analysed based on spontaneous reports of hypertrichosis/facial hair and investigators' inquiries (solicited) about the presence of any new hair growth on body parts other than the scalp. A postmarketing drug surveillance database for MTS was also examined for reports of hypertrichosis/facial hair. RESULTS: In the clinical trials involving a total of 1333 females, spontaneous reports of hypertrichosis/facial hair were noted for 50 (4%) females in a dose-related pattern of response (5% MTS > 2% MTS > placebo). Nine females (seven and two in the 5% MTS and 2% MTS groups, respectively) discontinued treatment because of hypertrichosis/facial hair. Solicited reports of excessive hair growth (primarily facial) also showed a dose-related pattern of response. Post-marketing data showed a lower occurrence (0.5%) of hypertrichosis/facial hair than in the clinical trials. Of interest, in one clinical trial, 27% of the females enrolled (MTS and placebo treated) had facial hair growth reported at baseline. CONCLUSIONS: Females with some hirsutism are particularly prone to seek treatment for AGA, and this may explain the high occurrence of hypertrichosis/facial hair found in the MTS clinical trials. Furthermore, some demographic groups of females are prone to develop facial hair and the problem of unwanted facial hair growth seems to be underestimated. Some females may have hair follicles that are very sensitive to MTS and should use the lowest strength of MTS (2%) to help avoid unwanted hair growth. The hypertrichotic effect of MTS on other sites than the scalp, including the face, is reversible and does not always require discontinuation of therapy.     

Eyebrow threading: a popular hair-removal procedure and its seldom-discussed complications

Removal of eyebrow and facial hair by 'threading' has gained popularity worldwide. Threading is an ancient Eastern method of removing unwanted facial and eyebrow hair by a technique whereby one end of a cotton thread is held in the mouth of the technician and the other end looped around individual hair shafts, which are then pulled out. This is repeated in quick, successive movements. In India, this is used extensively for shaping and removing eyebrow hair. Threading now enjoys immense popularity with women worldwide, irrespective of race or colour, and is an accepted method for removing eyebrow hair and shaping the eyebrows. However, this popular cosmetic procedure has some significant dermatological side-effects and is not familiar to many dermatologists. To our knowledge, this is the first report of verrucae occurring in threaded eyebrows. Other complications include erythema, folliculitis, pseudofolliculitis, hyperpigmentation, and depigmentation, including koebnerization of vitiligo. This report should alert dermatologists to the possible complications that may arise from this popular aesthetic epilatory procedure.     

Hair removal by lasers and intense pulsed light sources

Laser and flash-lamp technology now offers the potential for rapid, safe, and effective treatment of unwanted hair. An ever-increasing number of published studies have confirmed the long-term efficacy of laser and flash-lamp treatment. The benefits of this technology have largely been limited to individuals with dark hair and relatively fair skin. The first studies using devices with a combination of longer wavelengths, longer pulse durations, and adequate epidermal cooling have shown that it is possible to safely and effectively treat individuals with darker skin types. The remaining challenge is to develop the means to eliminate light-colored hair as well. The increasing consumer demand for low-cost hair removal has driven the development of low-cost hair removal devices, such as small, pulsed flash lamps. The rapid pace of technologic advances and continued studies of hair follicle biology promise to improve this field over the years to come. In the future, small, low-cost laser-razors may replace all other means of hair removal.     

Permanent hair removal with a diode-pumped Nd:YAG laser: a pilot study using the direct insertion method

BACKGROUND: The removal of unwanted hair with various laser systems and related procedures has been investigated for many years. All researchers have met difficulty when trying to achieve "permanent" hair removal. In addition, damage to the epidermis and other complications, including hyper- or hypopigmentation in pigmented skin, have occurred because the laser energy was applied indirectly to the hair bulb through the epidermis. OBJECTIVE: To achieve permanent hair removal with the use of a diode-pumped neodymium:yttrium-aluminum-garnet laser system with an insulated optical needle. Also, to establish laser treatment parameters that allow for quick and effective removal of hair with minimal pain and no long-term medical complications. METHOD: The laser used in the study was capable of producing up to 500 mJ of energy per burst at a 1,064-nm wavelength. A pulse width of 200-500 micros and a burst frequency of 100-200 Hz could be selected, and both defined a subset of the treatment parameter space. An optical needle, typically 130 microm in diameter, was prepared before each new treatment was conducted. Three bursts of energy, 300 mJ each, with a 300-millisecond interval, were delivered through the optical needle into each hair follicle. Between 200 and 300 shin hairs, typically terminal hairs, on each of 5 volunteers were treated. These volunteers were observed over 18.5-30 months for the regrowth of hairs by hair count. RESULTS: At the end of the observation period (6-30 months after the last treatment), 3 of 5 volunteers showed permanent loss of 76%-94.3% of their unwanted hair. One volunteer lost 34.8% of the original hair, but regrown hair was much thinner than the original terminal hair. One volunteer lost only 22.8% of the original hair, and regrown hair was coarse terminal hair. Except for the loss of hair, no change in skin texture, sensation, or skin color was observed. CONCLUSION: The direct insertion optical method (DIOM), delivering laser energy directly to the hair bulb through an optical needle, has proven to be effective and achieves permanent hair removal in 60% of volunteers without medical complications.     

Patient satisfaction with laser hair removal

Background Laser hair removal (LHR) is a widely used treatment for unwanted hair. Aim To determine patient satisfaction with LHR. Methods The clinic offered LHR by long pulse ruby, alexandrite and Nd:YAG. Patients attending the LHR clinic completed a patient satisfaction questionnaire. Satisfaction with LHR treatment was recorded on a linear analogue scale (LAS 0 = laser very much worse than alternative method; 10 = laser very much better than the alternative method). Results In terms of hair removal, 71% of patients were satisfied with their treatment. Laser treatment compared favourably with electrolysis and waxing. LHR scored 8.6 when compared with electrolysis and 7.7 when compared with waxing. During LHR treatments, 61% of patients used fewer ancillary methods than before. Most patients would recommend LHR to other persons with unwanted hair. Conclusions Most patients were satisfied with LHR.     

Long pulsed Nd:YAG laser with inbuilt cool sapphire tip for long term hair reduction on type- IV and V skin: a prospective analysis of 200 patients

Background: Laser hair reduction has become a very popular means to get rid of unwanted hair. Aims: We conducted the current study to evaluate the safety and efficacy of Nd: YAG laser on dark skin. We also evaluated the effect of increasing the gap between sessions on the long term efficacy of hair reduction achieved with long pulsed Nd: YAG laser. Methods: A prospective study was conducted on 200 consecutive female patients who underwent laser hair reduction for unwanted hair over the face, at Kaya skin clinic Delhi, with long pulsed Nd: YAG laser, from May 2006 to May 2009. The gap between sessions was increased from 2 nd session itself. Results were evaluated 6 months after 6 sessions. Also a note was made of worsening of hair growth or any side effects experienced the patient during any of the sessions. Results: A total of 200 female patients (160 skin type IV and 40 skin type V) were followed up. Of these, 64 enrolled for lower face, 88 for chin or upper neck and 48 for upper lip. 6 months after 6 sessions, more than 50% improvement was seen in 68.7% of lower face, 89.69% cases of chin and 59% of upper lip cases. None of the patients had any worsening. Conclusions: The current study shows that long pulsed Nd: YAG is a very safe and effective means of hair reduction in skin types IV and V. Adequate fluences and increasing the gap between sessions from the 2 nd session could be the key to achieving long term hair reduction with Nd: YAG laser. Adequate cooling and proper shaving are the key factors determining the safety.     

Treatments for unwanted facial hair

Twenty-two percent of women in North America have unwanted facial hair, which can cause embarrassment and result in a significant emotional burden. Treatment options include plucking, waxing (including the sugar forms), depilatories, bleaching, shaving, electrolysis, laser, intense pulsed light (IPL), and eflornithine 13.9% cream (Vaniqa, Barrier Therapeutics in Canada and Shire Pharmaceuticals elsewhere). Eflornithine 13.9% cream is a topical treatment that does not remove the hairs, but acts to reduce the rate of growth and appears to be effective for unwanted facial hair on the mustache and chin area. Eflornithine 13.9% cream can be used in combination with other treatments such as lasers and IPL to give the patient the best chance for successful hair removal.