From the bottle to the skin: challenges in evaluating antioxidants

Endogenous production and ultraviolet-generated free radicals in the skin can lead to photoaging and even skin cancer. Topical antioxidants have been found to provide benefits against ultraviolet damage and these ingredients have been incorporated into various cosmetic products and claimed to have substantial effects. Currently, there is a lack in a standardized rating system to measure the concentration and activity levels of antioxidants in these products. As a result, it is difficult for consumers and clinicians to evaluate and select commercial products based on readily accessible evidence. In this review, we will describe four assays which have been used to measure antioxidants in various products, and the strengths and weaknesses of each test will be detailed. We will highlight key considerations for clinicians when interpreting the results of antioxidant tests when evaluating commercial products containing antioxidants.     

Changes in European legislation make it timely to introduce a transparent market surveillance system for cosmetics

Marketing of cosmetics often makes strong claims linked to active ingredients. This is especially so for anti-ageing products, where the presentation and content of "active" ingredients may create new difficulties in their classification as cosmetics or medicinal products. A recent change in European legislation classifies a product as medicinal by virtue of its "function", in addition to the previous definition of "presentation" (i.e. marketing linked to diseases). Thus, formulations that also restore, correct or modify physiological functions by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action should henceforth be covered by the Medicinal Products Directive. A cosmetic product must be suitable for its purpose and should not lead to adverse reactions that are disproportional in relation to its intended effect. However, the forthcoming ban on animal testing of cosmetic ingredients and the new European regulation, REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals), which aims to ensure a high level of chemical safety to protect human health and the environment, will probably have limited impact on the safety assessment of cosmetics. In order to enable consumers to make informed purchasing decisions, greater transparency in the process of assessing the performance of cosmetics is needed. Introduction of a more transparent system, enabling consumers and professionals to examine the scientific evidence for the claimed effect and the safety assessment of cosmetics, is therefore timely. Lack of transparency increases the risk of consumers wasting money on cosmetics that do not deliver the desired effects. This may jeopardize public trust in the cosmetic industry.     

Determinants of consumer adoption of halal cosmetics: A systematic literature review

Background

The global halal cosmetics market is projected to grow during the forecast period. However, the factors that influenced consumers in the world to opt for halal cosmetics remain ambiguous.

Objectives

The objective of this study was to understand the universal concept of halal cosmetics and a framework of critical points that influence consumers in purchasing halal cosmetic products.

Method

The method used was Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) Statement by using Web of Science and Scopus databases. This study extends the systematic literature review covering all variables in purchasing halal cosmetics as halal cosmetic is not simply a religious issue, but it is also an opportunity to increase sales and acquire a competitive advantage.

Results

This study found 14 articles that mainly discussed the critical points related to religiosity and product factors, that is, ingredient, halal logo, and halal certification as the highest driver in influencing consumers to purchase halal cosmetics. Other related factors in this study are price, promotion, place, social factors, and characteristics of consumers. These factors should be taken into consideration as they provide a plus point and an extra edge to local or international manufacturers to tap the global markets for halal cosmetic products that cater to both Muslims and non-Muslims communities.

Practical Implications

Cosmetic manufacturers and marketers must ensure that their products suit the expectation of consumers as todays halalan and tayyiban products are being searched rather than branded products due to their cleanliness, safety, and hygienic.

Originality/Value

This study is among the earliest study examining the factors of purchase intention in halal cosmetics using a systematic literature review method that integrates marketing stimulus (product, price, promotion, and place) and other stimuli (social, religious, and characteristics).     

Cosmeceuticals: current trends and market analysis

The desire to maintain a youthful image combined with an emerging global market with disposable income has driven the development of many new industries. The cosmeceutical industry is based on the development and marketing of products that lie between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Today, there are over 400 suppliers and manufacturers of cosmeceutical products, and the industry is estimated to grow by 7.4% by 2012. Although a number of products advertise predictable outcomes, the industry is largely unregulated and any consumers of cosmeceutical products should consult a dermatologist prior to use. This review will provide a snapshot of the current trends of this industry and provide an analysis of this multi-billion dollar market.     

Cosmetics and hair loss

Cosmetic hair care products are often implicated by the user or the clinician in cases of hair loss. Yet, these products are used ad lib, in a wide variety of home conditions and on a wide variety of hair types, by millions of consumers every day with no adverse effects. Based on this extensive data set, the absence of literature reports, and a detailed understanding of the mode of action of cosmetic hair care products, we can conclude that they do not cause hair loss. Clinicians investigating cases of hair loss must fully appreciate the hair cycle, the length of time a single fibre may be present on the head, and its biological and cosmetic history in order to understand the causes of hair loss and make the correct diagnosis. With a better understanding of the cosmetic practices used by everyday consumers, the clinician will be in a strong position to help patients re-grow their hair and guide them through a high quality hair care regime.     

Allergenic ingredients in nail polishes

It has been known since the 1940s that nail polishes contain allergenic ingredients. The aim of this study was to clarify whether the nail polishes on the market today contain significant amounts of allergens, and what the solvents are. The following ingredients were determined: toluene, toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resins, free formaldehyde, acrylates, methacrylates and certain organic-solvents. The study comprised 20 brands and 42 samples. All the nail polishes analyzed contained allergenic toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resins (TSFR), in concentrations from 0.08 to 11.0%. The concentration of total formaldehyde varied from O.12% to 0.5%. The more TSFR a nail polish contained, the higher was its formaldehyde content. Probably not only TSFR-allergic but also formaldehyde-allergic persons may get dermatitis from many of the nail polishes studied. The concentrations of acrylates and methacrylates were so small that they are of practical significance only to those previously sensitized lo acrylates. Of the organic solvents, toluene was still widely used, whereas xylene was found in only 1 product. The nail polishes on the market today are not safe for all consumers. However, according to the regulations of the European Union, the packaging labeling of all cosmetic products must be supplied with a list of ingredients from the beginning of 1998. This will help the consumer to avoid allergenic products. A better alternative could, however, be to substitute the most allergenic ingredients with substances possessing minor allergy potency.     

Lichtschutz

UV radiation is responsible for the induction of epithelial and melanocytic skin cancer, photoaging, and photodermatoses. UV protection is necessary to prevent damage caused by non-physiologic exposure. UV protection includes not only reduction of sun exposure but also use of sun protective filters, UV protective clothes, DNA repair enzymes, and antioxidant supplementation. Consumers are uncertain about the possibilities and limitations of commercial sun protection measures. Dermatologists must explain protective measures to the general public which continues to believe that UV-tanned skin is healthy. The sunscreen market is a highly competitive but lucrative market. The range of products with different designations and promises makes difficult for both consumers and dermatologists to determine what is sensible UV protection.     

Light protection: principles of UV protection

UV radiation is responsible for the induction of epithelial and melanocytic skin cancer, photoaging, and photodermatoses. UV protection is necessary to prevent damage caused by non-physiologic exposure. UV protection includes not only reduction of sun exposure but also use of sun protective filters, UV protective clothes, DNA repair enzymes, and antioxidant supplementation. Consumers are uncertain about the possibilities and limitations of commercial sun protection measures. Dermatologists must explain protective measures to the general public which continues to believe that UV-tanned skin is healthy. The sunscreen market is a highly competitive but lucrative market. The range of products with different designations and promises makes difficult for both consumers and dermatologists to determine what is sensible UV protection.     

Transmittance spectra and theoretical sun protection factors for a series of sunscreen-containing sun care products

Sun care products containing sunscreens are widely used, but consumers are generally unaware of the important differences in the ability of these lotions to block exposure to the ultraviolet A (UVA) portion of the solar spectrum. The purpose of this study was to determine the transmittance spectra, with particular emphasis on the UVA portion of the spectrum, for a variety of commercially available sun care products, to determine Commission Internationale d'Eclairage (CIE) erythema effectiveness spectra and to compare these with information in the product label. The transmittance spectra for a sample of sun care products were measured spectrophotometrically. These values were convoluted with the CIE erythema action spectrum and the sunlight spectra determined for solar noon on June 21 at 0 degrees and 50 degrees N latitude to produce CIE effectiveness spectra. The UVA transmitted through the sun care products that claimed UVA protection on the bottle label varied from as little as 6% to as much as 52%. In addition, it was determined from the CIE effectiveness spectra that any erythema induced following application of the tested lotions would be caused by the UVA portion of the solar spectrum for all, but one, of the products examined. The results of this study emphasize the necessity for better guidance to the consumer as to the ability of sun care products to provide protection against UVA exposure.     

Ultraviolet A radiation: testing and labeling for sunscreen products

Conceptually, sunscreen products are quite simple. The ultraviolet (UV) filters in these products reduce the "dose" of solar energy to which the skin is exposed. Underlying this empirical notion are many complexities including measures of product efficacy and how to communicate this to consumers. The sun protection factor (SPF) test is and should remain the singular in vivo method for evaluating sunscreens. Additionally, substrate spectrophotometric measure of absorbance/transmittance and the calculation of the summary statistic, such as the critical wavelength (ie, lambda(c)), should be used as a means of evaluating broad-spectrum (ie, UVA) protection. Ideally, the photoprotective efficacy of sunscreen products will be communicated to consumers as an SPF no greater than 50 and a single designation of "broad-spectrum" to indicate long-wavelength UVA protection.     

The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

As early as can be traced, written documents testify endeavors shown by humanity to please by means of the hair. Hair care, color and style play an important role in people's physical appearance and self-perception. Dermatologists should be knowledgeable about the procedures people follow to look their best and should have the competence to provide patients with information on the benefits and hazards of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Shampooing is the most common form of cosmetic hair treatment. The diversity of qualities expected from a shampoo by today's consumer surpass the primary function of cleansing. Current shampoo formulations are adapted to the variations associated with hair quality, hair care habit and specific problems related to the superficial condition of the scalp. Hand in hand, test methods are developed to evaluate the efficacy of hair care products so that consumers are offered products that perform as claimed. Through the development of cosmetics with pharmaceutically active compounds, products are evolving that are becoming more similar to topical therapeutic agents (cosmeceuticals). The efficacy of cosmeceuticals that claim to act as hair growth stimulants should be measured by the standards set by the drugs minoxidil and, more recently, oral finasteride. Finally, health hazards associated with the use of hair care products, especially rinse-off products, have been overemphasized by the media and need careful correction by opinion leaders.     

Vesicles: Potential nano carriers for the delivery of skin cosmetics

In the present scenario, consumers are searching for personal care products that supply multiple benefits with minimal efforts. The outcome has been the introduction of nanotechnology-based cosmetic products that are safe to use and results driven. Some topical cosmetics can act efficaciously when they reach their target sites present in the deeper layers of the skin. The main problem with delivering active ingredients across the skin is the barrier function of the skin. Therefore, to get the maximum benefit from cosmetic products and to overcome the problems associated with their skin penetration, scientists are investigating various strategies to overcome these barrier properties. Vesicular carriers have been claimed to improve the topical delivery of active ingredients. This review offers a brief overview of current approaches in the research and development of vesicular carriers to improve the delivery and performance of active ingredients present in the cosmetics.     

“护肤品咨询医师”——一种新职业?

护肤品市场飞速发展,品种纷杂,消费者难以做出正确的选择。随之而来的,可能会出现一种"护肤品咨询医师"的职业。本文主要探索了"护肤品咨询医师"出现的可能性和意义,及其应该具备的素质,希望最终能通过"护肤品咨询医师"的有效工作,打破护肤品和消费者之间的隔阂,使消费者能选择到适合自己的护肤品。     

Chemical peels

With so many new peel preparations on the market today, the dermatologist must ask himself basic questions concerning the products. The most important question is directed to the medical literature rather than the advertising or marketing campaign so common among market-driven cosmetic products. Since all peeling agents--superficial, medium depth and deep--are derived from basic chemicals known to cause exfoliation, destruction and/or inflammation of skin in a controlled manner, the clinician must ask what is new and better about the product. Peeling agents, regardless of their proprietary new name, fall into chemical families. The clinical evaluation of these generic agents is well documented in our literature as to efficacy, technical care and safety. In addition, combinations of peeling agents have been presented in the dermatologic cosmetic literature with scientific clinical trials and histology. These include: 1) The Gordon-Baker phenol peel; 2) Combination medium depth peeling; 3) Glycolic acid formulations. It is the responsibility of the dermatologic surgeon to be in control of his chemicals and his products. It is thus necessary for him to understand all the products and the peel formulation and be sure it has undergone the test of objective scientific study with clear clinical evaluations and histology. Only then will we truly know the effectiveness of the agents we are using for exfoliating and resurfacing.     

Results of a cosmetovigilance survey in The Netherlands

Background. Cosmetic products contribute considerably to the incidence of contact dermatitis. In response to a resolution of the Council of Europe, the National Institute for Public Health and the Environment (RIVM) in The Netherlands set up a pilot project to report undesirable effects attributed to cosmetic products. Objectives. To provide an overview of undesirable effects attributed to cosmetic products and to identify the ingredients involved. The information could contribute to the assessment of whether current EU legislation on cosmetics provides adequate protection. Patients/methods. General practitioners, dermatologists and consumers in The Netherlands completed questionnaires on reported undesirable effects of cosmetics. Dermatologists also carried out patch tests and, where necessary, tests with specific batch ingredients of the associated cosmetic product. A website and a public awareness campaign were launched to encourage consumers to report undesirable effects. Results. Between July 2009 and May 2011, the RIVM received more than 1600 reports. Severe undesirable effects were claimed in 1–4% of the cases. The most frequently reported cosmetic products were make‐up and moisturisers, and the most frequently identified allergens were isothiazolinones and fragrance ingredients. Three patients tested positive for co‐polymers/cross‐polymers. Conclusions. Further investigations are recommended on the prevalence of isothiazolinone‐induced allergic contact dermatitis and the allergenic potential of co‐polymers/cross‐polymers.     

Beyond skin feel: innovative methods for developing complex sensory profiles with silicones

In today's competitive skin care market, formulators strive to meet consumer demand for products that combine performance with superior esthetics. Although skin feel has always been a key esthetic parameter, consumers increasingly select products based on a more complete sensory experience, including texture, scent, visual esthetics in the container, tactile effects on application, and the performance of active ingredients such as vitamins or sunscreen. This paper reviews approaches employed by Dow Corning which, when combined with sensory evaluation and formulation expertise, can be used to develop a more complete sensory experience, respond to consumer trends, or meet specific regional preferences for skin care products. It also describes how silicones can be used to develop new product appearance, texture, skin appearance, and feel, based on the wide range of rheological behavior and product forms among these materials.     

Contact allergens and irritants in household washing and cleaning products

Background: Household cleaning products often contain potential allergens and irritants but allergic contact dermatitis from these products in general consumers is rarely reported in the literature. Objectives: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the presence of irritants and allergens as indicated on the labels or on the product information found on the website of household cleaning products marketed in Italy. Material/Methods: We examined the labels and the product information of 291 liquid household washing and cleaning products, including 43 washing‐up liquids, 63 laundry detergents, 61 fabric conditioners, 47 spray detergents, and 77 hard surface cleaning products. We obtained the data from the product information found on the websites for 263 products and directly on the product packages for 28 products. For each product we specifically recorded the presence of surfactants, preservatives, and fragrances listed in Annex III of Directive 76/768/EEC. Results: The websites of two Italian brands do not respect EU regulations as they provide product information only with bar codes of the products. Preservatives and fragrances are the main allergens declared in the label of household cleaning products with methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI) listed in 35.7% and limonene in 43.6% of the products. Surfactants were listed in 16.5% of the studied products. Conclusions: Our study shows that household cleaning products in Italian market contain several allergens, particularly preservatives and fragrances. For consumers, at least in Italy, it may not be easy to retrieve product information from the website for two widely sold brands. The information had to be taken from the actual package.     

Requirements in cosmetics for black skin

As large, well-funded cosmetics houses are taking more interest in the needs of black consumers, so should the dermatologist. The dermatologist should be able to discuss intelligently with patients those products that are intended for black skin and hair. Patients also appreciate a referral to a hair stylist or cosmetologist that the doctor is familiar with. As outlined in this article, the most common cosmetics problems encountered by black consumers include the lack of selection of appropriate shades of cosmetics; greasy and irritating "black" make-up; irritant or allergic reactions to fragrance and other cosmetic ingredients; acne from "oil-free" products; and a shortage of effective products to treat "ashiness." It is hoped that this review will help the reader understand what black patients may expect from their skin and hair cosmetics.