Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing creams for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation

Background

There is an increasing demand for facial skin rejuvenation. Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments may be one of the first steps to help prevent or treat facial signs of aging. This article discusses aesthetic skin care for facial skin rejuvenation, particularly data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment.

Methods

The authors convened a dermatology advisory board to discuss challenges and practices in using skincare for facial rejuvenation, combining their expert opinion and experience on facial rejuvenation with preclinical and clinical data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and a review of the literature.

Results

Preclinical and clinical studies on Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and two creams containing the ferment exhibit anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and healing properties. In preclinical studies, the ferment demonstrated collagen type I enhancing properties in ex vivo skin models, and skin cells treated with the ferment migrated faster than untreated cells in the in vitro study. In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, the ferment alone and the ferment-containing products significantly decreased erythema, and in anti-aging studies, they improved visible skin aging parameters. Finally, in clinical studies on the stratum corneum, the two creams increased moisture levels and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery.

Conclusions

The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and creams containing the ferment are effective skin care treatment products to decrease the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.     

Efficacy and safety of a facial serum and a mask containing salicylic acid and lipohydroxy acid in acne management: A randomized controlled trial

Background

Inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions constitute a significant clinical challenge in acne subjects.

Aim

To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a facial serum and a mask containing salicylic acid and lipohydroxy acid for improving skin conditions.

Methods

This randomized controlled trial included adults with comedones, post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) and/or hyperpigmentation (PIH) in Shanghai, China in July 2021. Participants were randomly assigned 1:1 to receive the study Serum + Mask or serum alone for 8 weeks. Acne severity, comedones, papules, pustules, PIE, PIH, skin pores, skin tone evenness, sebum secretion, skin hydration, and trans-epidermal water loss were evaluated at T0d, T1d, T7d, T14d, T28d, and T56d.

Results

Eighty-three participants were included, including 41 and 42 in the Serum + Mask and Serum groups, respectively. Acne severity, density of skin pores, skin tone evenness, PIH foci on face, PIE foci on nose, intensity of PIE and PIH, closed comedones on face, open comedones on nose, sebum secretion, and skin hydration were significantly improved from baseline after 8 weeks of treatment in both groups (all p < 0.05). Addition of the mask improved the number of closed comedones (−6.56 ± 0.39 vs. −5.19 ± 0.44, p = 0.022) and acne severity (−0.39 ± 0.08 vs. −0.12 ± 0.09, p = 0.026) substantially more than using the serum alone. No adverse reaction was reported in either group.

Conclusions

The study serum improved skin conditions by regulating skin barrier function and achieving a balance of skin hydration and sebum secretion, removing comedones and improving PIE and PIH. Addition of the mask accelerated the effects without compromising safety.     

The clinical benefit of a multimodal topical approach to treating skin dyspigmentation

Background

The recent removal of hydroquinone from the over-the-counter market has created a need for modern skin lightening formulations. An effective pigment lightening formulation must be non-irritating to prevent skin darkening from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, penetration enhanced to reach the epidermal/dermal junction, contain anti-inflammatory ingredients, and address multiple mechanisms of pigment production.

Objective

The objective of this research was to demonstrate the efficacy of a topical multimodal pigment lightening preparation containing tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and licorice.

Methods

Fifty female subjects 18+ years of all Fitzpatrick skin types with mild to moderate facial dyspigmentation were enrolled. Subjects were provided with the study product for twice daily use on the entire face and an SPF50 sunscreen with evaluations occurring at Week 4, Week 8, Week 12, and Week 16. The investigator used a face map to identify a pigmented target site on the face for dermaspectrophotometer (DSP) measurement. The dermatologist investigator completed a baseline facial efficacy and tolerability assessment. The subjects completed a tolerability assessment.

Results

48/50 subjects completed the study without tolerability issues. The DSP readings demonstrated a statistically significant reduction in target spot pigmentation at Week 16. The investigator assessed a 37% decrease in pigment intensity, a 31% decrease in pigment extent, a 30% decrease in pigment homogeneity, a 45% improvement in brightness, a 42% improvement in clarity, and a 32% improvement in overall facial skin dyspigmentation at Week 16.

Conclusion

The combination of penetration enhanced tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and licorice was effective in inducing facial pigment lightening.     

A novel treatment option for photoaged skin

Background DNA damage as a result of ultraviolet (UV) exposure plays an important role in the progression of cutaneous aging. Both folic acid and creatine have been linked to the process of DNA protection and repair. Aims This study aims to investigate the effects of a commercially available folic acid– and creatine‐containing formulation to fight the clinical signs of premature skin aging. Patients/methods Both in vitro and in vivo home‐in‐use studies using a folic acid– and creatine‐containing formulation were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy in terms of improvement of skin regeneration, protection from UV‐induced DNA damage (Comet assay), reduction of wrinkle volume, and skin visco‐elasticity. Furthermore, clinical evaluation and photography were carried out to determine the improvement of clinically graded parameters after treatment. Results Cultured full‐thickness epidermal skin models supplemented with folic acid and creatine after epithelial perturbation showed an accelerated skin regeneration compared to untreated control models. Similarly, application of a folic acid– and creatine‐containing formulation significantly improved epidermal turnover in vivo as evidenced by smaller corneocytes derived from the treated sites relative to the vehicle‐treated sides. In addition, topical in vivo application of this formulation significantly protected from UV‐induced DNA lesions, increased skin firmness, and reduced wrinkle volume compared to untreated control areas. Expert grading confirmed a significant decrease of fine and coarse wrinkles in the periocular region as well as overall wrinkles, tactile roughness, and laxity. Conclusions Taken together, these results show that the combination of folic acid and creatine significantly accelerates epidermal skin regeneration in vitro and in vivo. Together with the finding of improved biomechanical skin properties, we conclude that the described topical formulation provides an effective treatment option for (photo)‐aged skin.     

Topical gel containing Polysiloxanes and hyaluronic acid for skin scar: Formulation design,characterization, and In vivo activity

Background

Scar formation is undesirable both cosmetically and functionally. It shows that silicone gel is effective in preventing and improving scars formed due to a wound formation after injury.

Objectives

This study investigates whether a silicone gel composition based on a novel concept of infusing a biologically active material such as hyaluronic acid and/or salts with various polysiloxane derivatives in a specific proportion to achieve desired viscosity range and their action has a synergistic beneficial effect on skin scar after injury.

Methods

We have developed a topical gel utilizing a combination of emulsifiers, sodium hyaluronate, polysiloxane, and its derivatives. The method of preparation comprises mixing of aqueous phase dispersion and polysiloxanes blend under stirring at room temperature.

Results

It results in the formation of a homogenous smooth gel formulation. The developed topical gel formulation was characterized for physicochemical properties, rheology, stability, and anti-scar activity in Wistar rats. It was found that the developed formulation system consists of desirable attributes for skin applications. In vivo investigation of developed polysiloxane gel formulation for anti-scar activity shown promising outcomes compared to marketed product (Kelo-cote scar gel). Furthermore, a histopathology study of healed skin tissues observed the formation of microscopic skin structures compared to the Kelo-cote scar gel.

Conclusions

It indicates that the combination of polysiloxanes and sodium hyaluronate resulting an improvement in anti-scar activity compared to the marketed product containing polysiloxanes alone.     

Topical antioxidant application augments the effects of intense pulsed light therapy

Background There has been great interest in improving the efficacy of nonablative technologies by combining them during facial skin rejuvenation. The purpose of this study was to determine whether the addition of topical polyphenolic antioxidants to an intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment regimen augmented the effects of facial IPL treatments. Methods Thirty female volunteers, ages 34–52, with skin phototypes 1–3 were randomly assigned into three groups: group A (n = 10) received three full‐face IPL treatments spaced 3 weeks apart; group B (n = 10) underwent 6‐weekly full‐face treatments of a pneumatically applied topical polyphenolic antioxidant solution; group C (n = 10) received the combination of the three full‐face IPL treatments and the six full‐face topical antioxidant applications. Skin biopsies, skin polyphenolic antioxidant levels, and skin moisture content levels were obtained and clinical efficacy variables were noted prior to and following the treatment period. Results Compared to group A, group C demonstrated significantly greater epidermal and papillary dermal thickness, decreased lipid peroxide concentration, increased skin moisture content, and increased polyphenolic antioxidants levels (P < 0.05). There was qualitative improvement in hydration, texture, and pore size. Compared to group B, group C demonstrated significantly greater papillary dermal thickness (P < 0.05), and qualitative improvement in reduction of fine lines, reduction of hyperpigmentation, and skin dullness. group B and group C had equivalent polyphenolic antioxidant levels, lipid peroxide concentration, and epidermal thickness. Conclusion The addition of polyphenolic antioxidants to an IPL regimen improved the clinical, biochemical, and histological changes seen following IPL treatment alone. These data support the use of multimodal therapy to create synergy and to optimize clinical outcomes in nonablative facial skin rejuvenation.     

Safety and efficacy of human platelet extract in skin recovery after fractional CO2 laser resurfacing of the face: A randomized,controlled, evaluator-blinded pilot study

Background

Fractional carbon dioxide (CO₂) laser resurfacing is used successfully for facial rejuvenation. Post procedure skincare is a variable that influences downtime caused by pain/tenderness, erythema, crusting, and bruising.

Aims

The primary objective of this pilot study was to demonstrate the benefits of human platelet extract (HPE) (plated)™ CALM Serum, a new topical cosmetic product, following fractionated CO₂ ablative laser resurfacing treatment to the entire face versus standard of care.

Methods

In a single-center, randomized, evaluator-blinded pilot study, a total of 18 subjects were randomized into two groups, CO₂ facial resurfacing followed by post-procedural standard of care (Stratacel silicone gel) or CO₂ facial resurfacing with the addition of HPE renewosomes in the CALM Serum.

Results

CALM Serum demonstrated statistically significant less crusting at Day 10 compared to the control group (p = 0.0193) with less downtime in the first 14 days (p = 0.03). Subjects treated with CALM Serum had statistically significant brighter appearing skin at 14 days (p = 0.007) and more youthful looking skin on Days 14 and 30 (p = 0.003 and 0.04, respectively).

Conclusions

This study demonstrates that Renewosome™ technology provides statistically significant post-laser clinical recovery over silicone gel for reducing crusting, and downtime. Subjects reported less diary days of symptoms of pain/tenderness, redness, crusting/flaking, bruising, and itching in the first 14 days compared to the control group. CALM also demonstrated statistically significant improvements in brighter and more youthful appearing skin. CALM is safe and well tolerated.     

Safety considerations for treating the parotid and submandibular glands with neuromodulators for facial slimming

Background

Neuromodulators have predominantly been used for the treatment of upper facial lines, but their use has expanded to include lower face and neck treatments. However, the injection sites for these treatments are based on skin surface landmarks, which may pose risks to nearby structures and result in undesired outcomes.

Objective

To investigate the spatial relationship between the FDA-approved skin surface landmarks for neuromodulator injections in the parotid and submandibular glands and the topographical anatomy of critical facial structures such as the facial artery, facial vein, external carotid artery, and retromandibular vein.

Materials and methods

A cross-sectional retrospective analysis was conducted on contrast-enhanced cranial CT scans. The scans were analyzed for the morphology and location of the parotid and submandibular glands. Measurements were taken for gland volume, craniocaudal extent, anterior–posterior extent, and distances between the skin surface and gland capsule or nearby structures such as arteries.

Results

The study sample consisted of 53 subjects, including 7 males and 46 females, with a mean age of 36.91 years and a mean BMI of 23.28 kg/m². The mean volume of the parotid gland was 31.9 ± 3.0 cc in males and 28.5 ± 3.6 cc in females with p < 0.001, while the mean volume of the submandibular gland was 18.2 ± 2.0 cc in males and 14.5 ± 3.4 cc in females with p < 0.001. The mean distances between skin surface and the gland capsule were 5.98 ± 2.2 and 8.84 ± 4.0 mm for the parotid and submandibular gland, respectively. This distance increased with higher age and higher BMI values in a statistically significant manner with p < 0.001.

Conclusion

The distances between FDA-approved skin surface landmarks and the parotid and submandibular glands varied significantly depending on gender, age, and BMI. Optimal injection depth and location for neuromodulator treatments cannot be generalized based on these landmarks alone, emphasizing the need for real-time ultrasound imaging guidance.     

Beauty from within: Improvement of skin health and appearance with Lycomato a tomato-derived oral supplement

Backround

Healthy and a youthful appearance is a common desire of the aging population. “Beauty from within” involves using nutrition and nutraceuticals to support skin function for reducing and reversing signs of aging such as wrinkles, pigmentary changes, skin laxity, and dullness. Carotenoids possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities and are effective in improving skin barrier and could thereby stimulate “beauty from within” by providing endogenous support to reduce the expressions of aging.

Aim

This study was designed to determine whether 3-month supplementation with Lycomato would improve skin condition.

Method

A panel of 50 female subjects used Lycomato capsules as nutritional supplements for 3 months. Skin status was observed via questionnaires for the assessment of skin condition and expert visual grading of facial markers such as wrinkles, tonality, roughness, laxity, and pore size. Skin barrier was assessed using transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Measurements were obtained before treatment and after 4 and 12 weeks of use.

Results

Results indicated a statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in skin barrier as measured by TEWL after 12 weeks of consuming the supplement. There was also a significant improvement in skin tonality, lines and wrinkles, pore size, and skin firmness as observed by expert evaluation as well as subject self-assessment.

Conclusion

Based on the confines and conditions of this study, oral supplementation with Lycomato resulted in significant improvement in skin barrier. Visual appearance of lines and wrinkles, skin tonality, pores, smoothness, and firmness were considerably improved, and these improvements were found to be substantially discernible by the subjects.     

Improvements in skin quality parameters in postmenopausal participants after use of topical growth factor serum

Background

Photodamage can induce skin aging processes that can be particularly concerning for postmenopausal women. Growth factors from hypoxic human fibroblast-conditioned media have demonstrated improvements in skin quality parameters.

Aims

The aim of the study was to assess efficacy and tolerability of topical combination-treatment hypoxic growth factor serum (TNS A+) in postmenopausal women with moderate to severe facial photodamage.

Patients/Methods

In this 12-week, open-label, single-center study, participants used TNS A+ serum twice daily. Postmenopausal women (40–65 years of age) with Fitzpatrick skin types I–VI and modified Griffiths scale scores 4–9 were eligible. Clinical and participant-reported assessments were evaluated at Weeks 6 and 12. Statistical significance was defined as p ≤ 0.05.

Results

There were 17 enrolled participants. TNS A+ treatment demonstrated significant improvements from baseline in fine lines and wrinkles in periocular, forehead, and cheek areas at Week 12 and the perioral area at Weeks 6 and 12. Significant improvements from baseline in coarse lines and wrinkles were observed for the perioral area at Week 12 and periocular and cheek areas at Weeks 6 and 12. Improvements in overall photodamage, skin tone evenness, and tactile roughness were significantly greater at Weeks 6 and 12 versus baseline. Most participants reported TNS A+ made their skin look and feel smooth, soft, and rejuvenated; improved skin radiance; made lines and wrinkles less apparent; and improved skin texture. No treatment-related adverse events were reported.

Conclusions

The TNS A+ regimen was well tolerated and provided significant improvements in skin quality in postmenopausal women with moderate to severe facial photodamage.     

Evaluation of photoaging in facial skin by multiphoton laser scanning microscopy

Background/purpose: It has been reported that autofluorescence (AF) and second harmonic generation (SHG) generated in the upper dermis are related with skin photoaging. In this study, we assessed the photoaging of facial skin exposed to daily sunlight using in vivo multiphoton laser microscopy to measure AF and SHG. Methods: The intensities of AF and SHG in the upper dermis of cheek skin of 56 healthy volunteers aged 20–69 years were measured using a commercially available multiphoton laser microscope (DermaInspect^®). Correlations between the photo‐signals and volunteer age were calculated. Results: The intensity of SHG and the SHG‐to‐AF aging index of dermis (SAAID) correlated significantly with age (r=−0.48, −0.67, respectively). Conclusion: Our results suggest that SHG and the SAAID index are useful indicators of facial skin aging in vivo.     

Efficacy of combined treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosome-containing solution and microneedling for facial skin aging: A 12-week prospective,randomized, split-face study

Background

Studies have reported promising results of mesenchymal stem cell therapies for skin aging. However, in the use of mesenchymal stem cells, some drawbacks including rarely possible tumorigenicity and low engraftment rates have limited their widespread clinical use. Adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosomes (ASCEs) are emerging as effective cell-free therapeutic agents.

Aims

It was evaluated the clinical efficacy of combining the application of human ASCE-containing solution (HACS) with microneedling to treat facial skin aging.

Methods

A 12-week, prospective, randomized, split-face, comparative study was conducted. Twenty-eight individuals underwent three treatment sessions separated by 3-week intervals and were followed up for 6 weeks after the last session. At each treatment session, HACS and microneedling were administered to one side of the face, and normal saline solution and microneedling were administered to the other side as a control.

Results

The Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale score was significantly higher on the HACS-treated side than on the control side at the final follow-up visit (p = 0.005). Objective measurements obtained by different devices including PRIMOS Premium, Cutometer MPA 580, Corneometer CM 825, and Mark-Vu confirmed greater clinical improvements in skin wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, and pigmentation on the HACS-treated side than on the control side. The results of the histopathological evaluation were consistent with the clinical findings. No serious adverse events were observed.

Conclusions

These findings demonstrate that combined treatment using HACS and microneedling is effective and safe for treating facial skin aging.     

A pilot study evaluating the anti-aging benefits of a CO2-emitting facial mask

Background

Since 1936, injectable carboxytherapy has been used for the treatment of circulatory issues and lack of tissue trophism. In the last 25 years, it has been applied to aesthetic issues, especially those related to the signs and symptoms of skin aging. Presently, carboxytherapy is available as a combination of transcutaneous gels that produce CO₂ with benefit for atrophic skin.

Objective

The objective of this study was to investigate the efficacy and safety of a topical carboxy mask on facial photoaging after short term use of 4 weeks and long term use of 10 weeks.

Methods

The short term study was conducted for 14 days after 3 times weekly application of the facial mask for 1 h followed by a regression phase with evaluations at days 21 and 28. 11 healthy female subjects age 45–75 years were enrolled. Subjects applied the facial mask for 45 min, 3 times per week during the 2-week treatment period. The long term study was conducted for 10 weeks on 35 subjects 35–65 years with mild to moderate facial photoaging of Fitzpatrick skin types I–VI. Subjects underwent photography, elasticity, hydration, and VAS questionnaire assessments.

Results

The short term 4 week study demonstrated improvement in laser-Doppler measured blood flow and skin hydration. The long term 10 week study demonstrated improvement in firmness (16%, p = 0.001), sagging (9%, p = 0.023), and overall skin appearance (12%, p = 0.002). These findings were supported by the retraction time decrease at week 10 (−10%, p = 0.05).

Summary

The combination of two gels produced the liberation of CO₂, which improved short term skin hydration after 4 weeks of use and improved longer term skin elasticity after 10 weeks of use.     

Superficial versus deep injections of the upper midface—A prospective interventional split-face study

Background

Various injection algorithms have been proposed in the past which are in line with the three aesthetic principles: upper face first, lateral face first, and deep regions first. However, increasing evidence is provided that the upper midface can be targeted with superficial soft tissue filler injections alone too.

Objective

To investigate in a prospective split-face study design whether superficial or deep upper midfacial injections provide superior aesthetic outcomes.

Methods

A total of n = 20 study participants (100% females; age 43.95 (11.7) years; BMI 22.92 (2.6) kg/m²) were treated with superficial soft tissue filler injections on side of their face and deep injections on the contralateral side with a mean volume of 0.78 cc. Outcome was evaluated at 7 weeks follow-up for midfacial, and lower facial volume, for medial and lateral facial skin vector displacement, and for improvement of nasolabial, crow's feet, and upper cheek fullness severity scores.

Results

No adverse events related to safety or product tolerability were observed during the entire study period. All semiquantitative scores improved statistically significantly after the observational period (p < 0.001) but displayed no difference between the two applied injection techniques (p > 0.05).

Conclusion

The results of this split-face study revealed that both the superficial and the deep cannula injection technique for midface volumization statistically significantly improve the midfacial volume, reduce nasolabial fold and crow's feet severity. No statistically significant difference was observed between the two injection techniques when compared via semiquantitative and objective outcome evaluation after 7 weeks follow-up.     

Facial psoriasis in the etiology of prolonged erythema following medium-depth chemical peels for severe photodamage

Background

Chemical peeling is the controlled wounding of the epidermis and dermis for skin rejuvenation, involving the application of ablative agents to induce keratolysis and regeneration of damaged cell layers. Prolonged erythema is one complication of this procedure. We report the prevalence and probable etiology of prolonged facial erythema in a cohort of patients treated with medium-depth chemical peels.

Materials and Methods

A retrospective audit was conducted of all medium-depth facial chemical peels performed at two major teaching hospitals. All patients had severe facial photodamage affecting at least 75% surface area of the face. The occurrence of prolonged erythema following this peel was then identified and analyzed.

Results

Of our treatment cohort (n = 82, 51 women, 31 men) with 60 years mean (61.3 years for women, 56.7 years for men), 10 patients (12%; eight women, two men) experienced prolonged erythema beyond a month of treatment. Facial psoriasis was not apparent at the time of chemical peel but manifested as prolonged erythema beyond the expected timeframe following the procedure.

Conclusion

When patients experience prolonged erythema beyond a month of treatment and fail to respond to standard treatments, clinicians should examine carefully for extra-facial psoriasis prior to this procedure, and also consider facial psoriasis a possible cause of prolonged post-peel erythema.     

<Emphasis Type="Italic">In vivo</Emphasis> assessment of the effect of a cream containing <Emphasis Type="Italic">Avena Rhealba</Emphasis><Superscript>®</Superscript> extract and hyaluronic acid on the restoration of the skin barrier in de-epidermised skin produced with an erbium-YAG laser

Background

Wound healing studies require standardised methods for evaluating wounding and skin repair.

Objectives

Our study aimed to demonstrate the suitability of the erbium-YAG (Er-YAG) laser method to produce reliable epidermal lesions for evaluation of different skin repair creams.

Materials and methods

Skin de-epidermised by Er-YAG laser (four uniform epidermal ablations, area 8 × 8mm, in 21 healthy subjects) was treated with a product (A) containing Avena Rhealba ^® extract and hyaluronic acid and assessed for epidermal regeneration and barrier restoration. This treatment was compared to two reference products (B) and (C) and an untreated control. Over 22 days of treatment, doubleblind measurements ofwound characteristics were made for instrumental (wound surface area, barrier restoration, 3D skin topography) and clinical evaluation (lesion quality and tolerance).

Results

Tested product (A) resulted in a shorter time (9 days) and faster rate of wound closure than product C (12 days) and the untreated zone (16 days). Results for products (A) and (B) were similar. Clinical evaluation of lesion quality showed the same trends as the wound area/closure parameter. Barrier recovery assessments revealed that all three products showed a similar rate of decreasing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), which was significantly faster than the rate for the control.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the laser-induced epidermal wound model provided standardised lesions, enabling discrimination between different topical skin repair products.

     

Dynamics of skin barrier repair following preconditioning by a biotechnology-driven extract from samphire (Crithmum maritimum) stem cells

Background With aging, the barrier repair kinetics following any weakening of the epidermal permeability barrier function is commonly slowed down. Objective To assess the recovery rate of the epidermal permeability barrier function following controlled stripping and applications of samphire and control formulations. Method In 12 healthy subjects older than 50 years, controlled stratum corneum (SC) strippings were used to increase the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) just above 15 g/m²/h. This procedure followed a 14‐day skin preconditioning by daily applications of formulations enriched or not with a samphire (Crithmum maritimum) biomass. An untreated skin site served as control. The epidermal permeability repair kinetics was assessed for 14 days by daily measurements of both TEWL and the colorimetric value a*. Results A rapid (96 h) recovery to lower TEWL values was obtained at each of the samphire‐preconditioned sites (0.1% serum, 0.05% cream, the serum–cream association, and 0.5% silicone oil). This process was significantly (P < 0.001) faster than that on both the placebo‐preconditioned (silicone oil) and the untreated sites. No adverse inflammatory and sensory reactions were recorded. At the sites preconditioned by samphire formulations, the SC moisture (capacitance) was higher at completion of the study compared to inclusion. Conclusions The present experimental pilot study brings some clues supporting a beneficial boosting effect of samphire cell biomass on the kinetics of epidermal permeability barrier repair.     

A STUDY COMPARING CHEMICAL PEELING USING MODIFIED JESSNER'S SOLUTION AND 15%TRICHLOROACETIC ACID VERSUS 15% TRICHLOROACETIC ACID IN THE TREATMENT OF MELASMA

Background:

Melasma is a symmetric progressive hyperpigmentation of the facial skin that occurs in all races but has a predilection for darker skin phenotypes. Depigmenting agents, laser and chemical peeling as classic Jessner''s solution, modified Jessner''s solution and trichloroacetic acid have been used alone and in combination in the treatment of melasma.

Objectives:

The aim of the study was to compare the therapeutic effect of combined 15% Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and modified Jessner''s solution with 15% TCA on melasma.

Materials and Methods:

Twenty married females with melasma (epidermal type), with a mean age of 38.25 years, were included in this study. All were of skin type III or IV. Fifteen percent TCA was applied to the whole face, with the exception of the left malar area to which combined TCA 15% and modified Jessner''s solution was applied.

Results:

Our results revealed statistically highly significant difference between MASI Score (Melasma Area and Severity Index) between the right malar area and the left malar area.

Conclusion:

Modified Jessner''s solution proved to be useful as an adjuvant treatment with TCA in the treatment of melasma, improving the results and minimizing postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.     

Dermal carbonyl modification is related to the yellowish color change of photo-aged Japanese facial skin

Background

The photo-aged facial skin is characterized by various unique features such as dark spots, wrinkles, and sagging. Elderly people, particularly Asians, tend to show a yellowish skin color change with photo-aging. However, there has been no analytical study conducted on this unique skin color change of the aged facial skin.

Objective

The purpose of the present study is to examine whether the carbonyl modification in the dermal protein is involved in the yellowish color change that occurs in the photo-aged skin.

Methods

Normal skin samples excised from the face, abdomen and buttock of variously aged Japanese were separated into the epidermal and the dermal portions. These skin samples were histologically examined for carbonyl modification. Moreover, an in vitro constructed dermis model composed of a contracted collagen gel was treated with acrolein or 4-hydroxynonenal. All these samples were also studied colorimetrically.

Results

The dermal samples obtained from the photo-aged facial skin exhibited an appearance of yellowish color, whereas neither the facial epidermis nor the dermis obtained from the abdomen or buttock showed such a yellowish discoloration. The upper layer of the dermis that revealed the yellowish color showed elastosis whose elastic fibers were found to colocalize with carbonyl protein as detected by a labeled hydrazide, as well as by an immunohistochemical examination using the antibody against acrolein adduct. Experimental induction of carbonyl modification in a dermis model in vitro by a long-term treatment with acrolein or 4-hydroxynonenal was found to show the appearance of the yellowish change which was also proven by an increase in b* value of colorimetry. It was more pronounced than that induced by glycation.

Conclusion

Our present results strongly suggest that carbonyl modification of the dermal protein is involved in the production of the yellowish color change that is noted in the photo-aged facial skin.     

Effects of all-trans retinoic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate on the permeability of human skin in vitro

Recent in vivo investigations have shown that pretreatment with topical all-trans retinoic acid (RA) may diminish the skin response to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). This study evaluated the permeation of SLS through human skin after pretreatment with RA, and vice versa, by in vitro methods. The permeability coefficient of SLS (3.24 ± 0.21 × 10³ cm/h) and the 24-h cumulative amount of SLS (3.41 ± 0.6% of dose applied) permeating RA-pretreated skin did not differ significantly from those across untreated skin (control) (P > 0.05). In contrast, the permeability coefficient of RA (0.23 ± 0.05 × 10³ cm/h) and its 24-h cumulative amount (0.37 ± 0.05% of dose applied) penetrating SLS-pretreated skin were significantly greater than those permeating untreated skin (P<0.05). Thus, an increase in RA penetration was induced by SLS pretreatment; however, pretreating the skin with RA did not inhibit the percutaneous permeation of SLS. Based on previous in vivo findings where RA reduced skin reactions to SLS,⁸ one would speculate that RA pretreatment may decrease SLS penetration. However, these penetration data do not necessarily uphold this presumption. Perhaps, other interactions between the substances and the skin, e.g. at cellular levels, may be responsible for the differing skin responses.