药用库拉索芦荟活性多糖的护肤特性研究

目的 研究库拉索芦荟多糖的保湿特性、经皮吸收特性以及皮肤安全性。方法 采用超声辅助提取芦荟活性多糖，并通过人体皮肤水分含量和水分散失量测试法对所制备的芦荟活性多糖的保湿特性（包括锁水、保水两个方面）进行评价；Franz扩散池体外透皮吸收法评价其透皮吸收特性；人体斑贴试验评价其皮肤安全性。结果 与空白对照组比较，库拉索芦荟多糖可显著提高皮肤水合状态（P＜0.05），同时降低经皮失水（P＜0.05）；多糖质量浓度为5%时，皮肤渗透速率达到0.251 0 mg/(h?cm²)，24 h累计渗透量达（4.151 9±0.046 2）mg/cm²；人体皮肤斑贴试验中全部评定为0级反应。结论 库拉索芦荟活性多糖对皮肤具有显著的保湿功效以及较强的皮肤渗透力，并且高度安全，可作为优良的保湿添加剂在化妆品等肤用产品中广泛应用。

Skincare characteristic of active polysaccharide from Aloe vera

Objective To investigate the moisturizing properties, percutaneous absorption, and skin safety of active polysaccharide from Aloe vera (APAV). Methods The APAV was extracted from Aloe vera by the ultrasonic assisted extraction. The moisturizing property of the prepared sample was evaluated by the human skin moisture value determination and transepidermal water loss determination. The transdermal absorption characteristics of APAV was investigated by Franz diffusion cell in vitro transdermal absorption method. The skin safety was investigated by the human skin patch test method. Results APAV could significantly improve skin hydration status (P < 0.05), as well as reduce the skin water loss (P < 0.05). When the mass concentration of APAV was 5%, the skin penetration rate was 0.251 0 mg/(h?cm²) and the quantity of the transdermal absorption was (4.151 9 ± 0.046 2) mg/cm² in 24 h. The results of the human skin patch test were all in 0 level. Conclusion The results show that APAV has the significant moisturizing effect and strong penetration of the skin and high security on the human skin. It could be used as the moisturizing additive in cosmetic skin products.