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Guiding principles for the implementation of non-animal safety assessment approaches for cosmetics: Skin sensitisation
Authors:Carsten Goebel  Pierre Aeby  Nadège Ade  Nathalie Alépée  Aynur Aptula  Daisuke Araki  Eric Dufour  Nicola Gilmour  Jalila Hibatallah  Detlef Keller  Petra Kern  Annette Kirst  Monique Marrec-Fairley  Gavin Maxwell  Joanna Rowland  Bob Safford  Florian Schellauf  Andreas Schepky  Chris Seaman  Thomas Teichert  Nicolas Tessier  Silvia Teissier  Hans Ulrich Weltzien  Petra Winkler  Julia Scheel
Institution:1. Procter & Gamble, Berliner Allee 65, 64274 Darmstadt, Germany;2. Route de Messidor 59, 1723 Marly, Switzerland;3. L’Oreal, River Plaza 25-29, quai Aulagnier, 92600 Asnières-sur-Seine, France;4. Unilever – SEAC, Colworth House, Sharnbrook, MK 44 1LQ Bedford, UK;5. Kanebo Cosmetics, 89/91 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, 75008 Paris, France;6. Chanel, 135 Avenue Charles de Gaulle, 92521 Neuilly sur Seine, France;g Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Henkelstraße 67, 40191 Düsseldorf, Germany;h Procter & Gamble, Temselaan 100, 1853 Stroombeek Bever, Belgium;i KPSS – Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH, Pfungstaedter Strasse 92-100, 64297 Darmstadt, Germany;j Colipa, Avenue Herrmann Debroux 15A, 1160 Brussels, Belgium;k GlaxoSmithKline, St. George’s Avenue, Weybridge, KT13 0DE Surrey, UK;l Beiersdorf, Unnastrasse 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany;m GlaxoSmithKline, 2FA12 Park Road, SG12 0DP Ware, Hertfordshire, UK;n Spincontrol (representing FEBEA), 238 Rue Giraudeau, 37000 Tours, France;o L’Oreal, 1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnais Sous Bois, France;p Schillhof 5, 79110 Freiburg, Germany;q Johnson & Johnson GmbH, Johnson & Johnson Platz 2, 41470 Neuss, Germany
Abstract:Characterisation of skin sensitisation potential is a key endpoint for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients especially when significant dermal exposure to an ingredient is expected. At present the mouse local lymph node assay (LLNA) remains the ‘gold standard’ test method for this purpose however non-animal test methods are under development that aim to replace the need for new animal test data. COLIPA (the European Cosmetics Association) funds an extensive programme of skin sensitisation research, method development and method evaluation and helped coordinate the early evaluation of the three test methods currently undergoing pre-validation. In May 2010, a COLIPA scientific meeting was held to analyse to what extent skin sensitisation safety assessments for cosmetic ingredients can be made in the absence of animal data. In order to propose guiding principles for the application and further development of non-animal safety assessment strategies it was evaluated how and when non-animal test methods, predictions based on physico-chemical properties (including in silico tools), threshold concepts and weight-of-evidence based hazard characterisation could be used to enable safety decisions. Generation and assessment of potency information from alternative tools which at present is predominantly derived from the LLNA is considered the future key research area.
Keywords:ACD  allergic contact dermatitis  AEL  acceptable exposure level  APC  antigen presenting cells  CEL  consumer exposure level  CIR  cosmetic ingredient review  COLIPA  the European Cosmetics Association  DC  dendritic cells  DPRA  direct peptide reactivity assay  DST  dermal sensitisation threshold  EC3  effective concentration of the test substance required to produce a three-fold increase in the stimulation index compared to vehicle-treated controls  h-CLAT  human cell line activation test  HERA  human and environmental risk assessment  HMT  human maximisation test  HPV  high production volume  HRIPT  human repeated insult patch test  KC  keratinocytes  LC  Langerhans cells  LLNA  local lymph node assay  LogPow  octanol&ndash  water partition coefficient  MUSST  myeloid U937 skin sensitisation test  NESIL  no expected sensitisation induction level  NS  non-sensitisers  OECD  organisation for economic co-operation and development  QRA  quantitative risk assessment  (Q)SAR  (quantitative) structure activity relationship  S  sensitisers  SAF  sensitisation assessment factor  SCCS  scientific committee for consumer safety  SMARTS  SMiles ARbitrary Target Specificaton  TG  test guideline  TSC  threshold of sensitisation concern  TTC  threshold of toxicological concern  WoE  weight-of-evidence
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